Posted on

Dog shit seeds

Dog Shit

an unknown / legendary cannabis strain

Here you can find all info about the unknown / legendary cannabis variety Dog Shit. If you are searching for information about the unknown / legendary Dog Shit, check out our Basic Infos, Lineage / Genealogy or Hybrids / Crossbreeds for this cannabis variety here at this page and follow the links to get even more information – or list all Dog Shit Strains (3) to find a different version. If you have any personal experiences with growing or consuming this cannabis variety, please use the upload links to add them to the database!

Basic Strain Info

Dog Shit is a mostly sativa variety from unknown origin and can be cultivated indoors and outdoors . .

What do we know about the unknown/legendary Dog Shit?

Dog Shit is a sativa-dominant hybrid strain named for its aroma, which bears a striking resemblance to its namesake. For the novelty-seekers not turned off by its name and smell, Dog Shit provides uplifting euphoria that elevates the mood while crushing stress. This strain has an elaborate genetic background that is said to stem from Purple Zacatecas, Colombian Gold, Cambodian, and Hippie Trail Afghani.

All Dog Shit cannabis strains

Here you find all cannabis varieties beginning or ending with “Dog Shit&quot! Altogether we found 3 Dog Shit strains in the SeedFinder cannabis strain database, please click on the strain-names to get more information about the different Dog Shit versions from the different breeders.

3 Dog Shit Strains

Name of the strain breeder
Dog Shit Unknown or Legendary ?
Purple Dog Shit Clone Only Strains ?
Strawberry Dog Shit Connoisseur Genetics 63


Member Area

Language Select

SeedShop Radar

Glue Gelato Auto

Barneys Farm

1 feminised seed
Actual special-offer on
PEV Seeds Bank
Now 15.00 % reduced!

Posted on

Purple cane seeds

Purple Heart, Tradescantia pallida

Purple Heart (Tradescantia pallida) used as a bedding plant at the Missouri Botanical Garden.
Tradescantia pallida is a tender evergreen perennial native to northeast Mexico (from Tamaulipas to Yucatan) grown as an ornamental for its striking purple foliage. Originally named Setcreasea pallida by Joseph Nelson Rose in 1911, it was reclassified in the genus Tradescantia by D.R. Hunt of the Royal Botanic Garden Kew in 1975. The former name S. pallida or S. purpurea is still often used.
Commonly called purple heart or purple heart wandering jew (and occasionally “Moses in the Basket,” although this usually refers to a different species) this herbaceous plant in the Commelinaceae (spiderwort family) is a low-growing trailer that is hardy in zones 7-10, but is easily grown as an annual or houseplant in colder climates.
The small, pale purple flowers are borne on the ends of the stems.
Dark purple, lance-shaped leaves up to 7” long are produced alternately on fleshy stems. The fleshy leaves are covered with pale hairs and form a sheath around the stem. The stems are quite fragile, and break off easily if brushed or kicked too hard. In colder areas it will die back to the ground in winter, but comes back from the roots in spring. The rambling plants get about a foot high but can spread much wider.
From midsummer through fall, and sporadically at other times, relatively inconspicuous pink or pale purple flowers with bright yellow stamens are produced at the ends of the stems. These ½” wide blooms have three petals typical of this genus.
Purple heart makes a good container plant.
Purple heart can be used as a ground cover, cascading in baskets, as a trailer in mixed containers or as a houseplant. They are best used in masses for in-ground plantings and will spread relatively quickly. The purple leaves are a nice contrast to gold, chartreuse, or variegated foliage, and a great complement to pink, light purple, or burgundy blossoms on other plants. Pair it with complementary colors for bold combinations – chartreuse coleus, orange marigolds or red begonias.
Purple heart combined with asparagus fern, pink verbena and other flowers.
Try using it in a container with ‘Marguerite’ ornamental sweet potato, golden creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’ or other varieties) or light green asparagus fern. Or combine it with pink or lavender verbena, coral-colored scarlet sage (Salvia coccinea ‘Coral Nymph’) or pink petunias. Other suggestions for harmonious combinations with pink or purple-flowered plants include four o’clocks (Mirabilis jalapa), lantana, scaveola, vinca (Catharantheus roseus) and Mexican petunia (Ruellia brittonia).
Purple heart is easy to grow.
Grow purple heart in full sun for best color development; plants growing in shade tend more to green than purple. Pinch the plants to promote more compact growth. Plants are drought tolerant and thrive on neglect, but also tolerate frequent watering. Fertilize monthly when actively growing. Cut plants back after flowering to prevent them from getting spindly. If grown in containers to hold indoors over the winter or as houseplants, reduce watering during the winter and don’t fertilize until new growth starts in spring. Purple heart has few pests, but scales and mealybugs can be a problem. The juice from the leaves or stems may cause skin redness and irritation in some people and dogs, but this is not a common problem.
Plants are easily propagated by taking cuttings from any part of the plant – just shove a node into the soil or potting mix and it will usually root (or place in water until roots develop). This plant can also be propagated from seed but that is rarely available.
– Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin – Madison

Ask Your Gardening Question

If you’re unable to find the information you need, please submit your gardening question here:

How to Grow and Care for Purple Heart

Jennifer Lesser is a New Jersey-based freelance writer covering health/fitness, family/parenting, business, and lifestyle. She has over 16 years of experience writing for various outlets including Time Out NY and Parenting

Emily Estep is a plant biologist and fact-checker focused on environmental sciences. She received a Bachelor of Arts in Journalism and a Master of Science in Plant Biology from Ohio University. Emily has been a proofreader and editor at a variety of online media outlets over the past decade.

The Spruce / Heidi Kolsky

Purple heart (Tradescantia pallida) is aptly named, because its iconic purple stems grow beautiful small flower clusters that range from violet to pink. However, despite its unique blooms, many gardeners choose this fast-growing plant for its foliage, which is particularly vibrant. Both the stems and upper surfaces of the leaves appear to be deep royal purple but may also contain lighter shades of turquoise-gray that become darker as the foliage grows older. This long-jointed, sprawling plant is an ideal groundcover for anyone who loves a purple garden.

In warm climates, it is grown as an evergreen perennial that adds a pop of gorgeous purple color to your garden year after year. In cooler climates, Tradescantia pallida is grown as an annual. It is also widely commercialized as a houseplant.

Like other species of the Tradescantia genus, purple heart is toxic to humans and toxic to pets , causing contact dermatitis.

Common Name Purple heart, purple secretia
Botanical Name Tradescantia pallida ‘Purpurea’
Family Commelinaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 12-18 in. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (6 to 8)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10 (USDA)
Native Area Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets

Purple Heart Care

Purple heart is often referred to as a “creeping perennial” due to the fact that it will spread out as it grows. Purple heart is considered to have a fairly fast rate of growth, especially when compared to other indoor plants. Its flowers will die off in the winter months.

Gardeners should be aware that purple heart flowers are known to form dense groundcover, which can prevent the germination and establishment of other plants. However, the plants can add a lush and tropical groundcover texture to any landscape. Downward trailing stems mean it will always stand out, even when planted as part of border fronts, wall plantings, and rock gardens.

The Spruce / Heidi Kolsky

The Spruce / Heidi Kolsky


Purple heart is considered to be invasive in certain parts of the world, including Cuba, Puerto Rico, and portions of Mexico, but it is not invasive in the United States.


Planting your purple hearts in full sun can help ensure that they grow the vibrant purple stems. The plant can also grow in partial shade, but its stem is more likely to appear green than purple.

It’s best to introduce these plants to brighter conditions over time, however, as too much direct sunlight all at once can lead to foliage burn.

Purple heart plants will grow best in soil that’s lightweight, porous, and moist. Good drainage is a must. The plant tolerates a wide pH range from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline.


Purple heart is considered to be drought-tolerant, and it will not require a great deal of watering. For best growth, however, it is best not to let the plant sit dry for long periods.

Aim to water the plant when the top layer of soil feels dry to the touch. You’ll also want to stick to watering it during its blooming season. Keep in mind that younger plants will require more moisture than adults, and they should generally be watered at least weekly.

Temperature and Humidity

Purple heart can survive in an array of temperatures, but it’s susceptible to frost. As a plant that grows naturally in tropical and subtropical locations, purple heart prefers high humidity. If your house has drier air, a humidifier can help, as can placing your plant in a bathroom or kitchen. Dry air will impact the leaves, rendering them limp.


The purple heart plant generally doesn’t require fertilizer, although it can be used. Just be sure to dilute the solution to about half of its regular strength.


The plant grows long stems, and due to its fast growth rate, it can become leggy and spindly very quickly. You’ll want to prune it during the warmer months after the bloom period is over. Be sure to use sharp scissors and wear gloves, as the sap in the stems can cause skin irritations and burns. Aim to take off the top half of the stems that have become overgrown.

Propagating Purple Heart

Purple heart can be easily propagated by stem cuttings.

  1. Cut a 3- to 6-inch-long piece from a healthy plant, using a sharp knife or pruners. The piece needs to have at least one growth node.
  2. Remove the leaves from the lower end of the cutting so that only a couple of leaves remain on the upper parts. You can dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone but because purple heart roots easily, that’s not absolutely necessary (alternatively, you can also root the cutting in water and plant it in potting medium when you see roots).
  3. Fill a 4-inch pot with soilless potting medium and water it slowly until evenly moist.
  4. Using a pencil or a stick, poke a hole in the soil and insert the cutting in it so that the node is buried in the soil. Gently press down the soil around it.
  5. Place it in a bright location but out of direct sunlight. Water it regularly to keep the soil evenly moist at all times. After a few weeks, the cutting will root and you can transplant it into a larger pot or outdoors in garden soil.

Potting and Repotting Purple Heart

Though most commercial potting mixes will work just fine, the soil should ideally include peat moss (or coco coir, for a sustainable alternative), perlite, and compost. Make sure that there are drainage holes on the bottom of the container or pot, as too much water retained by the soil can lead to root rot.

Since this plant generally does not grow to be that large, it’s commonly kept as a houseplant. It won’t require frequent repotting, but it will need to be transferred to a new container if the roots begin to push through the drainage holes located on the underside of the pot. This will typically occur during spring due to its tendency to spread out during the growing season.

Common Pests & Diseases

This is a tough plant that attracts caterpillars and snails when grown outdoors.

However, it may also attract aphids, vine weevils, mealybugs, and scales. Place a layer of gravel, wood chips, or diatomaceous earth as a protective barrier around the plants to keep the little critters away.

Most likely, it is not getting enough sunlight. The foliage needs sun to develop its striking purple color.

With its thick, fleshy leaves that retain water, purple heart is considered a succulent.

For a more compact growth, pinch the tips of new stems. Make sure to wear gloves when you do this as the sap can cause allergic reactions.

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

Posted on

How bright should grow light ankace be weed seeds

Best LED Grow Light For One Plant

LED grow lights are pretty great indeed. Generally speaking, they aren’t too expensive, they are somewhat power friendly, don’t produce all that much heat, are easy to maintain, and often come in a full light spectrum too, not to mention with plenty of lumens.

Now, that said, many LED grow lights are made for big setups, but maybe you are just a home grower and want to grow a single pot plant. In this case, you aren’t going to need anything massive with a huge output, although it probably wouldn’t hurt in terms of final yield and bud quality.

VIVOSUN 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Hydroponic Indoor Plants Growing Veg and Flowering (120PCS LED Diodes)

1000W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower SUNRAISE LED Grow Lamp with Daisy Chain Triple-Chips LED (15W LED 96pcs)

Hytekgro LED Grow Light 45W Plant Lights Red Blue White Panel Growing Lamps for Indoor Plants Seedling Vegetable and Flower (2 Pack)

VIVOSUN 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Hydroponic Indoor Plants Growing Veg and Flowering (120PCS LED Diodes)

1000W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower SUNRAISE LED Grow Lamp with Daisy Chain Triple-Chips LED (15W LED 96pcs)

Hytekgro LED Grow Light 45W Plant Lights Red Blue White Panel Growing Lamps for Indoor Plants Seedling Vegetable and Flower (2 Pack)

Last update on 2022-06-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Either way, we are here right now to help you find the best LED grow light for one plant. There are plenty of good options, so get ready!

Best LED Grow Light For One Plant: Our Picks

Here we have what we think are some of the best options that are ideal for a single marijuana plant. Let’s take a closer look at each of them right now.

1. Vivsosun 600 Watt LED Full Spectrum Grow Light

  • 600W LED with the Most Punch: VIVOSUN’s full-spectrum 600W LEDs deliver optimal light-spectrum coverage, more power for bloom, maximum PAR output at various distances, and super-bright lights that your plants will love
  • Excellent Penetration in Tents & Grow Houses: Floods 3’x3′ targets in intense light for monstrous vegetative growth at height of 32″ and 2.5’x2.5′ targets for incredible blooms at height of 24″ that penetrate through your top canopy
  • Cool, Quiet & Efficient: With 2 built-in 5″ cooling fans, VIVOSUN’s professionally designed composite-metal grow light runs at proper temperature and consume only 270 Watts to produce your best, most energy-efficient harvest ever
  • Long Lifespan: Exclusive VIVOSUN design and composite-metal casing dissipates more heat than conventional LED grow lights, through the top and all 4 sides of the unit, extending the light’s lifespan to an estimated 100,000 working hours
  • Guaranteed Quality & Results: VIVOSUN guarantees your satisfaction in veg growth and flowering, backing our confidence with a 3-year warranty and 30-day hassle-free return guarantee

Last update on 2022-06-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Here we have a really nice full spectrum grow light, one that works well for all stages of marijuana growth including vegging and flowering.

It’s easy to mount, it produces a heck of a lot of light, and it can be used from start of growth to the end.

Power & Output

Ok, so this is a 600 watt LED grow light, so it is quite the powerful unit, and although it produces a lot of power, it actually only uses 270 watts, which is great.

In other words, this thing is actually quite energy efficient and cost effective. In terms of lumen output, this thing puts out around 25,000 lumens in total, which is enough light energy for vegging and flowering, plus it’s a high PAR grow light too.

Keep in mind that you will have to move the light a bit closer for flowering, but that’s about it. What is of course great about the Vivsosun 600 Watt is that it is full spectrum.

It has multiple different kinds of LED lights to cover all necessary wave lengths and colors on the spectrum, with lots of blue and others for vegging, and lots of red, orange, and others for flowering.


This thing is actually quite small and lightweight, plus mounting hardware is included.

Realistically, you could probably mount it on your own without any help at all. It doesn’t require any extra ballast. Just hang it, plug it in, and turn it on.

Durability & Lifespan

We do like the Vivsosun 600 Watt LED Full Spectrum Grow Light because it has a composite metal casing which is super tough an durable.

This whole thing is rated to work well in humid environments, such as grow rooms. Speaking of the lifespan, the LED lights in this thing are rated to last for over 100,000 hours, which is of course nothing short of impressive.

Overall, this is quite the durable and long lasting unit.


Yes, lots of LED lights can produce quite a bit of heat, which is why this particular LED grow lights comes complete with dual 5 inch cooling fans, ones that work to dissipate heat and keep this thing cool.

What’s nice about these fans is that they are also fairly quiet, which means that they won’t bother you while in use.

  • Durable and long lasting
  • Integrated high quality cooling system
  • Full spectrum for all growth stages
  • Very high lumen output
  • Quite easy to mount
  • Low power consumption
  • Hanging hardware could be more secure

2. Sunraise 1000 Watt LED Grow Light

  • 【Lens Technology】 SUNRAISE Full Spectrum LED Grow Light S-1000 combines optical lens technology (superior to reflector lenses) to increase light by 30% with higher PAR values than any other brand in the market.
  • 【VEG & BLOOM 】 Two Seperately Switches: VEG for seedling growth, Bloom for fruit and flowers. Veg/Bloom features a more Red/blue heavy output to deliver maximum performance from seedling through final flower.
  • 【Triple Chip LEDs】We used 15w Triple-Chip LEDs to make much brighter lights with improved PAR value. There are 96 Zener Diodes – each LED has one Zener Diode.
  • 【Daisy Chain Available】 The power cord is double use for power and daisy chain. Great for you to simplify growing operation and management, link more grow lights while using one wall outlet only.
  • 【What you get】S-1000 led grow light, stainless steel hanger hook, adjustable rope hanger, power cord (double use for daisy chain), welcome guide, our worry-free 36-month, and friendly customer service.

Last update on 2022-06-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

If you are looking to grow one really massive weed plant with tons of buds, a huge yield, and super potent nugs, the Sunraise 1000 Watt LED Grow Light might just be the right option for you.

It’s a super high powered full spectrum grow light, complete with a cooling system, mounting accessories, and more.

Power & Output

Yes, this is a 1000 watt light, which means that it puts out a heck of a lot of power which your weed plants can use to veg and flower. Now, this is a 1000 watt light, so it does use a fair amount of energy, but as far as lights of this size go, it’s actually fairly energy efficient, which is always good.

What is also important to note about the Sunraise LED Grow Light is that it puts out well over 40,000 lumens, which is obviously way more than enough for a single plant. You can use this grow light for one plant, but it will also work great for multiples.

What is really nice about this thing is that it is a full spectrum grow light, with lots of blue for vegging and lots of red for flowering. You can choose to use the LEDs for one stage or the other, or both at once too.

There is a switch so you can the vegging and flowering lights on and off.


Something that is nice about this LED grow light is that it is very easy to mount. It comes with all mounting hardware included for easy mounting, and no, you don’t need any extra ballasts or anything like that.

Simply hang it up, plug it in, and it is good to go. That said, it is slightly large and heavy, so you may need help from someone to hang it up.

Durability & Lifespan

This grow light is made with a nice composite metal shell, one which is quite durable, impact resistant, heat resistant, and moisture resistant too.

It’s a great option to have in a hot and humid grow room. In terms of the lifespan of the LED lights, it’s slightly over 50,000 hours. This is alright for this kind of thing, but could admittedly be better.


This grow light comes with dual 5 inch fans for cooling, fairly efficient and quiet ones.

They work to dissipate quite a bit of heat and to keep this grow light cool, but that said, you may still need to increase ventilation in the grow room, as this thing does produce a fair amount of heat.

  • Fairly good cooling system
  • Quite durable
  • Full spectrum LEDs
  • High lumen output
  • Easy to mount
  • Plug and play
  • Still produces a fair amount heat
  • Lifespan of the LEDs could be better

3. Ankace LED Grow Light

Last update on 2022-06-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

If you need a small, convenient, and budget friendly LED grow light for a single plant, the Ankace Mini LED Grow Light makes for a good option.

Now, it’s not particularly powerful, so it may be a but lacking in terms of lumens, but that said, it is a convenient full spectrum light for all growth stages of marijuana.

Power & Output

Ok, so the Ankace LED Grow Light is only a 50 watt light. This means that it is not that powerful, but of course, this can also be beneficial because it does not use much power at all, making it a very energy efficient and cost effective grow light.

Something else to note here is that because it doesn’t use much power, this thing also does not generate that much heat. That being said, this thing also doesn’t produce that many lumens, and doesn’t have a particularly high PAR value.

Now, it still puts out well over 10,000 lumens, which is more than enough for a single plant, but it’s not as powerful as some other options out there.

What is also worth noting is that this grow light is a full spectrum light, with some blue for vegging and lots of red for flowering. That said, it doesn’t have nearly as much blue as red, so it is better for flowering than vegging.

Durability & Lifespan

The Ankace Mini LED Grow Light is a fairly durable option, as it is made with aviation aluminum and ABS materials, so it’s about as tough as it can be.

The only downside here is that the electronics on the interior may suffer due to excessive heat or humidity. On the other hand, this budget friendly grow light has a pretty impressive lifespan of 50,000 hours, well, at least the LED bulbs do.


What is definitely a bonus with the Ankace Mini LED Grow Light is that it is super easy to mount. It comes with all mounting hardware included, it does not require a ballast, and it is not very large or heavy either.

You could easily mount this grow light on your own due to its convenient size, and then once it is hung up, simply turn it on. It’s an easy plug and play kind of thing.


What is good and bad about this LED grow light is that it does not come with cooling or ventilation fans.

On one hand, no, it does not really get hot enough that the unit itself requires cooling, but that heat is then left to sit in the grow room, thus causing temperature spikes.

In other words, you will probably need to increase cooling and ventilation when using this Ankace Mini LED Grow Light.

  • Comes with mounting hardware
  • Easy to hang and install
  • Pretty decent lifespan for what it is
  • Full spectrum
  • Durable shell
  • Low power consumption
  • Much better for flowering than vegging
  • Interior electronics could be of a higher quality

4. Hytekgro LED Grow Light

  • [Classical Full Spectrum] Compact grow light that puts out the needed light, includes 163pcs (620-660nm)+58pcs blue leds(450-460nm) +4pcs white leds (6500k), which is ideal for all kinds of indoor plants seeding growing and flowering at all growth stages.
  • [Easy Set-up] This led grow lights are lightweight and very easy to use with the upgraded hanging brackets, system can be built in perfect sturdy condition within one minute. Built in 59’’ power cord could really stand another two feet of length though and make your plants happy.
  • [Low Heat] ABS plastic material molding hydroponic grow lights panel , excellent Heat control, runs cool and quiet, no harm to your plants. Square shape design maximizes the beam to cover 3ft by 3ft area of plants, recommended to hang at around 6-10 inches for seedling.
  • [High Efficiency] Plants grow fuller with much stronger and straight stems with these led grow light bulb. Most of the seeds are germinated and sprouting in 2 weeks. Low power consumption save your electric bill, 2 pack design are value for the dollar.
  • [Worry-Free Warranty] We offer 12 months warranty plus 30 days satisfaction or return guarantee for this grow light kit. Please contact us first if there’s any issue, we promise to response within 24 hours.

Last update on 2022-06-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Here we have yet another smaller LED grow light, well, not exactly small, but it doesn’t use much power. Besides the fact that the Hytekgro LED Grow Light actually comes in a pack of 2, a single one is great for a single marijuana plant.

It features low power consumption, it’s a full spectrum light, easy to mount, and has a decent level of durability too.

Power & Output

The Hytekgro LED Grow Light uses only 45 watts of power, which is about as low as it gets. This means that for one, this LED grow light does not heat up too much, which is always a good thing, and of course, it helps you save money on your electricity bill too. It’s a power efficient and eco friendly LED grow light to go with.

Now, because it doesn’t use very much energy, the bulbs themselves don’t emit that much of it. This thing does still put out more than enough lumens for a single plant, probably enough for 2, but it’s no super high lumen output LED grow light to say the least.

What is however every useful about this grow light is that it is a full spectrum grow light. It comes with blue, red, and white LED bulbs for all stages of growth, although it does appear to be geared more towards flowering than anything else.

Durability & Lifespan

The Hytekgro LED Grow Light is decently durable. It is made out of durable ABS plastic, which may not be the most durable substance in the world, but durable enough for this kind of thing.

The lifespan of the LED bulbs themselves is somewhere around 50,000 hours, which is actually quite impressive considering that this grow light really is not anything overly special.


In terms of mounting, this light comes in at 12 x 12 inches and is also very lightweight. In all reality, you should be able to mount it on your own without much of an issue.

It’s light and compact, which makes things easy, plus all necessary mounting hardware is included. That said, the mounting hardware could be a bit more rugged, but it should be good enough.

You don’t need a ballast for this thing, or any kind of power transformer. Just hang it up, plug and play.


The Hytekgro LED Grow Light is pretty good in terms of heat dissipation, but no, it doesn’t come with an integrated cooling system.

That said, it also doesn’t draw much power to begin with, so it doesn’t produce all that much heat, although it does produce enough heat that you may have to do something about it.

  • Budget friendly
  • Great for a single plant
  • Enough lumens for a single plant
  • Full spectrum lights
  • Lightweight, compact, easy to mount
  • Mounting hardware included
  • Doesn’t produce as much heat as others
  • Still produces some heat
  • Better for flowering than vegging
  • Mounting hardware could be better

5. Phlizon CREE Cob Series LED Grow Light

  • CREE COB LEDS- CREE COB is known for high power and stability. CREE COB, higher brightness, smaller thermal resistance, less light attenuation and longer life.CREE COB itself is a full spectrum design with high PPFD value which can promote faster and better plant growth
  • EXTREMELY HIGH PPFD- PPFD, Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density,Hanging at 18″, the PPFD is 2453 umol/m²s. The bigger the density, the higher the value, the better the plant. COB LED has highest PPFD output. COB LED is much brighter and more efficient than traditional LEDs.
  • FULL SPECTRUM- The COB LED itself is a full spectrum lamp integrated design bead. We have added additional light beads in various bands to ensure the full spectrum of science. It contains 4pcs COB, 68pcs 630-660nm, 10pcs 470nm,6pcs 6500k, 4pcs 3000K, 4pcs UV, 4pcs IR
  • MAXIMUM ENERGY SAVING- The actual power is 400watt.Best hang height at 24″,Core Coverage area at 3.9×3.9ft. It is more scientifically and energy-efficient than HPS HID and MH. It serves both herb/veg/bloom and is convinient for you.
  • BEST SERVICE- We are a professional LED light manufacturer with strong R&D team and many light tester. 2 years warranty plus 30 days money back guarantee. If you have any problems, please feel free to contact us. We will provide you with completely satisfing reply.

Last update on 2022-06-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Now, if you want to grow one very large, tall, thick, dense, and wide weed plant, a real monster plant that takes up something like 3 x 3 feet of space, and you need a super powered light to spur on fast and big time growth, the Phlizon Cob Series LED Grow Light might just be what you need.

This thing comes with multiple bulb types, it’s full spectrum, it produces a heck of a lot of lumens, and much more. This may not be the most budget friendly LED grow light around, but it does produce amazing results, plus it even comes with a nice 2 year warranty in case anything goes wrong with it.

Here you even get a thermometer and humidity monitor included for free, a nice little bonus. Let’s take a closer look at this monster right now.

Power & Output

What is impressive about this grow light is that it is a 2000 watt light, which is very powerful indeed, more powerful than anything else we have looked at so far, yet it only used 450 watts, which therefore means that comparably speaking, it’s one of the more energy efficient and eco friendly LED grow lights around.

Now, when it comes to output in terms of lumens, you really won’t find anything more powerful than this here on our list today.

This thing produces a ridiculous amount of lumens, something which equates to well over 1,000 lumens per square foot when the light is about 2 feet away from your weed plant. In other words, in total, this thing produces well over 30,000 lumens, which is more than enough for any weed plant.

Perhaps the most impressive part about this grow light is how many different kinds of LED bulbs it comes with.

This thing comes complete with 4pcs COB, 68pcs 630-660nm, 10pcs 470nm, 6pcs 6500k, 4pcs 3000K, 4pcs UV, 4pcs IR. In other words, all parts of the light spectrum are covered in full, making this grow light an excellent option for all growth stages of the marijuana plant.

Keep in mind that you can choose which of the LEDs to have on or off with convenient power switches.

Durability & Lifespan

This particular full spectrum LED grow light is also shown to be one of the more durable options out there.

It’s made with a lot of metal and some durable ABS plastic too, plus the interior components are rugged, heat resistant, and moisture resistant too.

This might just be the most durable grow light here on our list today. In terms of the lifespan, you can expect to get at least 60,000 hours of it, which is also nothing short of impressive.


Ok, so when it comes to mounting, you will probably need some assistance from somebody, as this thing is pretty big and heavy. That said, all mounting equipment is included, and the mounting equipment is pretty durable too.

The Phlizon LED Grow Light is a plug and play type of thing, plus it does not need a ballast either. So, all in all, installation and mounting is quite easy.


One downside to the Phlizon Grow Light is that it does run quite hot, and yes, it produces a fair amount of heat which you then need to deal with.

Now, it does come with its own multi fan cooling system, and it does work pretty well to keep the light itself at a decent temperature, but that heat still gets dispersed into the grow room, and that is something you will need to deal with.

  • Super bright and powerful
  • Lots of lumens
  • Quite energy efficient
  • Total full spectrum light
  • Good mounting hardware
  • High quality cooling system
  • Super durable
  • Produces a lot of heat
  • Probably overkill for a single plant

6. Yoyomax Mini LED Grow Lamp

  • Best Red & Blue Light Combination | 60 Full Spectrum LEDs: 39 red LEDs combined with 21 blue ones provide the most common spectrum of light to fuel indoor plants growth. Whether in the indoor garden or commercial greenhouse, yoyomax grow lights keep plants healthy and thriving.
  • 3 Switch Modes | 6 Dimmable Options: yoyomax 3-head plant light, with 3 switch modes and 6 dimmable options, is ideal for all kinds of your indoor plants at all growing stages. You are able to turn on/off each arm individually and change the light intensity, depending on the growth stage.
  • Auto On/Off | Circular-Memory Timer: 3 time settings enables you to keep the light on for 3, 6 or 12 hours, ensuring that your plants receive the proper amount of lighting at different stage. Moreover, when kept plugged in, yoyomax grow lamp remembers the latest setting and will turn on at the same time next day.
  • Flexible Goose-Neck | Sturdy Clamp: The 360-degree rotatable necks allow you to perfectly place the lights around a single plant or grow more plants at the same time. With anti-slip clamp, they are sturdy enough to hold their position for the best coverage around the plants.
  • yoyomax 24 Hrs Online: We take pride in delivering top quality products and offering our friendly life time support. You can contact our 24 hours customer service through clicking “Sold by” on the product detail page or your Amazon order page and you will be directed to “Ask a question” to send us message.

Last update on 2022-06-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Here is a little honorable mention, so we will keep it short. This Yoyomax Mini LED Grow Lamp is a very small grow lamp, one that is really only ideal for seedlings and plants just starting their vegetative state.

It has 3 heads, each with about 20 LED lights, and each head has both red and blue light. This is therefore a good light for both vegging and flowering, in theory, but keep in mind that it is small and doesn’t have great light penetration past the canopy, so it’s not best for flowering large weed plants.

That said, the 3 heads are all highly adjustable, and you can face them in whatever way you want. The Yoyomax Mini LED Grow Lamp could thus make for a good side light, for directing at your weed plant from the side.

It’s a really easy to use light. Just plug it in, clip the clamp onto a surface over a small weed plant, and you are good to go.

No, it doesn’t have all that many lumens, it’s not super bright, and it won’t produce the highest yields, but it will work fine for very young and small weed plants, or as a supplemental side light as well.

  • Small and compact
  • Energy efficient
  • Good for flowering and vegging
  • Great for young plants
  • Can be used as a side light
  • Can make for a good supplement
  • Energy efficient
  • Not bright or strong enough for full scale growth
  • Limited durability


Folks, there are plenty of great LED lights out there for growing one plant. Sure, some of the ones we talked about here today are pretty big and powerful, and yes, can be used for more than a single plant.

That said, there is no denying the fact that if you use a more powerful LED grow light, one that is full spectrum and puts out a lot of lumens, your overall results will be much better.

Choose the right LED grow light for your marijuana plant and you definitely won’t regret it.


My passion for the sticky icky started nearly a decade ago, and it all began when I first laid my eyes on the beauty that is the marijuana plant.

I cover all aspects of growing from equipment recommendations to plant health/care tips to help both new and experienced growers.

The Best Grow Lights in 2022

Indoor lighting is rarely bright enough to give plants what they need to thrive—even on a windowsill. We tested the top grow lights on the market to see if they could ensure healthy plant growth—find out how they fared in our hands-on tests.

By Heather Blackmore and Glenda Taylor | Updated Mar 30, 2022 8:43 AM and its partners may earn a commission if you purchase a product through one of our links.

Photo: Glenda Taylor

When it comes to plants, all light is not equal. Unless you have a greenhouse or an unlimited number of south-facing windows, grow lights are your best option for providing the right light to your plants. Though nothing is better than natural sunlight, grow lights are designed to provide Photosynthetic Active Radiation (PAR) so the plant can undergo photosynthesis like outside in nature. We wanted to know if they worked well enough to keep plants not just alive—but thriving—so we tested the most popular models on the market.

We placed the plants and grow lights in areas that were otherwise too dark for plants to grow, and we tried them out on a variety of plants, from houseplants to herbs, to flowering seedlings. We kept track of plant health, overall growth, and the development of new leaves. Ahead, learn what to look for when selecting the best grow lights for your indoor plants, and find out both the pros and cons of the following models before making your choice.

  1. BEST OVERALL:Hytekgro LED Grow Light 45W Panel (2 Pack)
  2. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK:GE Grow LED Light Bulb, BR30 Bulb Shape
  3. BEST FOR HOUSEPLANTS:Ankace Grow Light, 3 Head Timing, 5 Dimmable Levels
  5. BEST TABLETOP:LBW Grow Light with Stand, LBW Full Spectrum 150W LED
  6. BEST ADJUSTABLE:BESTVA Dimmable Pro1000 LED Grow Light
  7. BEST FOR SMALL POT:GrowLED LED Umbrella Plant Grow Light
  8. MOST VERSATILE:Hydrofarm Agrobrite FLC32D Compact, 32 Watt
  9. BEST MONITORING:Phlizon 2022 Upgraded 600W LED Plant Grow Light

Photo: Glenda Taylor

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Grow Light

Whether you’re hunting for a grow light to supplement natural light for indoor overwintering of potted patio plants, or you’re looking to start seeds indoors for transplanting to the garden in spring, a grow light can help. Today’s options range in price from under $20 to $150, or more, depending on quality and light range.

Cool, Warm, and Full-Spectrum

Grow lights are labeled with numbers like 2,500K or 6,500K, which tells you the temperature of the light according to the Kelvin scale of measurement. The higher the number, the cooler the light. So a bulb with a Kelvin rating of 6,000K will have a white or bluish tint, whereas a 3,000K bulb will be yellower. Each type of light—warm or cool—stimulates specific plant behavior.

If your goal is to improve foliar growth in your houseplants or grow leafy greens or seedlings, choose a cooler spectrum bulb around 6,500K. Warm light will have a lower Kelvin rating and is ideal for flower production in houseplants and fruiting plants like citrus. When in doubt, full-spectrum lights take out the guesswork and offer a combination of both cool and warm light for the best of both worlds.

LED vs. Fluorescent Bulbs

Standard fluorescent bulbs are a weak home light source but they’re great for supplementing natural light for houseplants or starting seedlings. Their cooler light makes them one-dimensional, so they’re ideal when lush foliage, not flowers, is the goal. Because their light cannot penetrate plant leaves with strong intensity, the grower must locate the light within a few inches of the top of the plant to be effective.

Full-spectrum compact fluorescent lights (CFL) are a better option. Available in tube and bulb forms, CFL grow lights are more intense than standard fluorescent lights.

LED grow lights, not to be confused with regular LED lights, are more expensive than fluorescent lights but they make up for that with longevity and energy savings. LEDs have both blue and red lights to mimic the full-color spectrum of the sun and might emit a bright, purplish glow. That’s not a big deal if the lights will be in a basement or a garage, but it’s something worth considering if they’ll be in a living area. Like fluorescent bulbs, LEDs are available in tubes for lighting a tray of seedlings or as bulbs when you want to light a specific plant.

Bulb or Stand Setup

The number of plants or seedling trays you want to grow is a good indicator of the kind of grow light best suited to your situation. Although a single bulb is perfect when positioned above a sun-loving succulent during the winter, seedling trays are better suited to a stand system that allows you to raise the light as the seedlings grow taller. So, whether it’s a premade stand with lights attached or one you build from scratch with an inexpensive wire rack and a hanging grow light bar or two, ultimately, your budget will have the final say.

Premade stand setups are pricey and if your seed-starting plans are modest, consider building your own system. However, houseplant enthusiasts might gravitate toward a more aesthetic premade grow light stand better suited to indoor living spaces.

Bells and Whistles

For houseplants, consider a full-spectrum grow light attached to a bendable or gooseneck arm that allows you to position the light directly above the plant. Some are stationary lamps for tabletops, and others have a clamp at the end of the bendable arm so you can attach the light to the edge of a desk or table. Intended for use with one or two houseplants, these lights often come with timers so you can cater to a plant’s specific light needs and a USB connector for plugging into a computer.

For seed starting and flowering houseplants, some full-spectrum grow light panels come with timers as well as remotes that allow you to change the type of light emitted based on the plant’s growth stage—cool light for seed starting, warm light for flower production, and full spectrum when you’re uncertain about the type of light you need.

Photo: Glenda Taylor

Our Top Picks

To qualify for a spot in this lineup of the best grow lights, each of the following models had to perform well in our hands-on tests. We paired each light with various plants or germinating seeds, and we tested each function on the lights, including timers, dimmers, and temperature monitors. Overall, grow lights are relatively straightforward helpers—they offer added illumination without creating heat. The following grow lights performed well in our tests, although each is designed for a slightly different growing situation.

Best Overall

Hytekgro LED Grow Light 45W Panel (2 Pack)

Lightweight and easy to install, the Hytekgro LED light panel puts out a full spectrum of color to support all stages of plant growth. The two-panel kit includes steel hanging brackets for proper height adjustment. Each 12-inch by 12-inch panel distributes light across approximately 3 square feet when suspended 18 inches from the top of a seedling tray. The light emitted has a purple glow, which may be something to consider if it will light up plants in a living space.

We hung the Hytekgro lights over flowering seedlings that we purchased for transplanting in the garden, and we turned the panels on for 16 hours per day. The seedlings didn’t grow in height too much during the weeks we tested the lights, but they did fill out, and more blooms appeared.

We watered the seedlings during the testing phase but didn’t fertilize them, so the bulk of any growth that occurred could be attributed to the lights. A real upside to the Hytekgro lights is that they didn’t heat the space, but a slight downside is that they didn’t come with a timer, so we had to set an alarm and manually turn them on and off. The square shape makes them suitable for hanging over square and rectangular flats of seedlings, and we felt as though the health of the plants improved during their time under the lights.

Product Specs

  • Size: 12 inches by 12 inches (2 pack)
  • Light color: Red, blue, and white
  • Estimated coverage area: 3 feet by 3 feet (per panel)


  • Lightweight
  • Low heat
  • Easy to hang
  • Bright light


Get the Hytekgro Grow Lights on Amazon and at Walmart.

Best Bang for the Buck

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, BR30 Bulb Shape

For those wanting to take advantage of a grow light without investing a lot of money in an elaborate system, consider the GE Full Spectrum Grow Light Bulb. It offers a range of red, white, and blue light, although it appears pure white to the naked eye, which makes it well-suited for use in a living room, bedroom, or any spot in the house where plant-positive light is desired. Best of all, you can use an existing lamp or light fixture.

We used the GE bulb in an aluminum work light fixture and tied it to a rack over pots in which we’d planted lemon balm seeds. Like other types of vegetable and herb seeds, lemon balm seeds need ample light to germinate. The seeds sprouted in about 10 days, so they got enough light to germinate.

Our light fixture was crude, and when hung approximately 18 inches over the soil, the light radiated in a circular pattern about 2 feet in diameter. However, it was very bright and difficult to look at directly. We decided it could be put to better use in an adjustable-arm lamp that could be pointed toward a plant but away from eyes.

Product Specs

  • Size: 6 inches high, 4 inches in diameter
  • Light color: Red, blue, and white (appears white)
  • Estimated coverage area: 2-foot radius at 18 inches above plant specimen


  • Very bright
  • Cool light
  • Affordable


  • Doesn’t come with a fixture or a timer

Get the GE Grow LED Bulb on Amazon, at Lowe’s, or at Walmart.

Best for Houseplants

Ankace Grow Light, 3 Head Timing, 5 Dimmable Levels

Not all homes have room for large hanging grow lights, but the Ankace 60-watt tri-head grow light takes up very little real estate. The three prongs on the Ankace light measure almost 3 feet high, and we decided to use them to supplement ambient light for a houseplant that was looking pretty tired after a winter in a dimly-lit room. Each of the prongs is flexible and can be moved into position over or around the side of a plant—to spread out light as desired.

The grow light is also adjustable—we could choose either red light, blue light, or a combination of red and blue. Even better, the Ankace grow light comes with a timer and the ability to dim or brighten the lights. We selected the 12-hour-on mode on a mid-range brightness setting. When all three prongs were positioned over the plant, the light spread in a radius of about 1.5 feet—just enough for a single houseplant.

Our test plant had quite a few yellowing leaves at the beginning of the test—and that’s not uncommon for that plant, but we wanted to see if we could green it up a bit. After 3 weeks under the Ankace lights, the plant showed signs of new leaves starting—something it typically has not done until it’s taken out to the patio in late spring.
The Ankace lights didn’t produce much heat, although we could feel a slight warmth by putting our hands under the lights when the red light was on. When only the blue light was on, no heat could be felt. The light comes with a robust clip-on fastener for attaching to a counter or a desktop.

Product Specs

  • Size: Nearly 3 feet high
  • Light color: Blue and red
  • Estimated coverage area: 1.5 feet


  • Handy timer
  • Select red or blue light—or both
  • Dimmable light output


  • Slightly warm on the red light

Get the Ankace 3 Head Grow Light on Amazon or a similar model at Wayfair.

Best Expandable

2022 New SPIDER FARMER SF-1000 LED Grow Light

The Spider Farmer light isn’t designed to propagate arachnids despite its name. Instead, it’s a serious grow light that can be paired with other Spider Farmer lights to provide healthy illumination to a large area of plants. This grow light comes with a built-in dimmer, timer, light color selection, and an intricate hanging system that allowed us to raise and lower the light via a corded pulley system.

We only tested a single Spider Farmer grow light, but it was impressive. The instructions said the system would support up to 11 additional lights—on a single circuit. The top of the light comes with an outlet for plugging in extra lights. It also features a continuous dimmer that lets us select the exact brightness we wanted. The light offers blue, white, red, and infrared (IR). We tested all the colors on the potted herbs we were growing.

The herbs (thyme) were pretty gangly before putting them under the Spider Farmer. To start with, we turned the intensity up to maximum light. Wow! This light lit up the room. It’s that bright. Since we were testing it on just one plant, we settled for a dimmed mode and left the light on for 16 hours. No timer on this one, but that’s because it’s designed for use in a horticultural setting, in combination with other lights and add-on timers.

After 3 weeks, the herb plant seemed to perk up a bit under the light, but it didn’t show a lot of new growth. However, it did become greener in color. This is an impressive light, and we would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone serious about developing a commercial-worthy system.

Product Specs

  • Size: 10.5 inches by 10.5 inches
  • Light color: Blue, red, white, and infrared
  • Estimated Coverage Area: 3 feet by 3 feet (brightly)


  • Very bright
  • Full-spectrum light
  • Adjustable intensity
  • Expandable


Get the Spider Farmer Grow Light on Amazon.

Best Tabletop

LBW Grow Light with Stand, LBW Full Spectrum 150W LED

A bit of space on a countertop or a table is all that’s needed for the LBW Grow Light. It comes with an adjustable tripod stand that extends from 15 inches up to 48 inches high. If desired, the LBW light can be placed on a floor, but we put it on a table and turned its gooseneck light downward to illuminate our plants from above.

The LBW light requires some assembly, but it’s simple, and the manufacturer includes the wrench needed to tighten the nut that attaches the LED head to the tripod. The flexible gooseneck allowed us to turn the light in any direction, making this grow light suitable for lighting plants at various angles. At 18 inches above the plants, the LBW light shone brightly a 1.5 feet diameter—not a large area, but it wasn’t made to compete with some of the hanging grow lights we tested. It’s well suited for individual houseplants or small seed-starting projects, and it didn’t produce noticeable heat.

The LBW provides white, blue, and red light, and we were able to select which color we wanted. We tested this grow light on various plants—manually turning it on and off as it doesn’t have a timer. We felt it helped perk-up straggly plants, although it’s not as powerful as some, so its benefits were less apparent. Still, it’s an affordable option for those who want to supplement light for overwintered houseplants or start seeds on a tabletop.

Product Specs

  • Size: Adjustable, 15 inches to 48 inches high. Tripod base, 13 inches.
  • Light color: Red, blue, and white
  • Estimated coverage area: 1.5 feet


  • No hanging support required
  • Suitable for a tabletop
  • Adjustable direction of the light head
  • Adjustable height


  • No timer
  • Less bright than some

Get the LBW Grow Light with Stand on Amazon.

Best Adjustable

BESTVA Dimmable Pro 1000 LED Grow Light

The BESTVA Dimmable Grow Light is for dedicated indoor growers. The 224 powerful LEDs in this panel lit up the room nearly as bright as daylight, making this grow light suitable for getting seedlings off to a good start or growing plants indoors year-round.

Right out of the box, the quality of the materials was apparent—the BESTVA light features a dimmer dial with marked increments. Permanent anchors are cut into the stainless steel top that attaches to a hanging pulley system, allowing us to lower and raise the light as necessary. This bright grow light illuminates an area about 3 feet by 3 feet at the height of 18 inches above the plants when turned to full intensity. It was more light than we needed for our testing, but a pair of sunglasses is included, which would come in handy for someone who ran the light at maximum intensity.

The light produces red, blue, and white light waves, although it appears white. The BESTVA light is a top choice of those who live in locations where it’s legal to grow marijuana, and the light itself is marketed for growing marijuana—its logo is a marijuana leaf. However, it would also be beneficial for growing a wide range of other plants. It did not produce noticeable heat.

Product Specs

  • Size: 17 inches by 13 inches
  • Light color: Red, blue, and white (shows as white)
  • Estimated coverage area: 3 feet by 3 feet


  • Very bright
  • Full-spectrum light
  • Pulley system included
  • Dimmable


Get the BESTVA Dimmable Grow Light on Amazon.

Best for Small Pot

GrowLED LED Umbrella Plant Grow Light

If any grow light has a right to claim cuteness—it’s the GrowLED Umbrella Light. This little light comes with a telescoping spike we inserted in the soil of our pot to direct light downward—directly on the plant. The Grow LED offers only cool white or red light, but it’s enough to supplement ambient light in a home office or another room.

The thing that makes this tiny grow light unique is the ability to power it by plugging it into a USB port or a standard outlet. The light intensity is dimmable, and it didn’t produce any heat—even on the highest setting. The umbrella is 4.5 inches in diameter, and the telescoping spike adjusts from just over 8.5 inches up to almost 30 inches, making it well suited for short or tall plants. However, we felt it was best suited to smaller plants since it doesn’t offer a great deal of intensity.

The light comes with a timer that allowed us to program the light to come on for 16 hours and then go off for 8 hours. While it doesn’t cast enough light for seed starting or for large growing operations, it’s adequate for overwintering a favorite potted plant or for supplementing year-round light for an indoor houseplant.

Product Specs

  • Size: Height adjusts from 8.5 to 30 inches, 4.5 inches in diameter
  • Light color: White and red
  • Estimated coverage area: 8 inches


  • Suitable for small potted plants
  • Adjustable umbrella height
  • Dimmable
  • Comes with a timer


  • Not suitable for large plants

Get the GrowLED Umbrella Light on Amazon or at Walmart.

Most Versatile

Hydrofarm Agrobrite FLC32D Compact, 32 Watt

Our second bulb in the lineup, the Hydrofarm Agrobrite Fluorescent Bulb, fits into a standard light socket, offering versatility while providing clear white light to enhance plant growth.

The compact fluorescent light (CFL) is expected to last for up to 10,000 hours, making it well suited for adding the extra light seedlings or overwintered potted plants crave. We used the Hydrofarm light in a reflective aluminum light fixture and suspended it over dill seeds we’d sown in small pots. After sprouting, the tiny dill seedlings grew on sturdy stocks, which would not have been possible without a supplemental light source.

However, this is a bright bulb and needs to be used in a fixture that directs the light away from the user’s eyes. We detected a minimal amount of heat from the light, but not enough to be problematic. The Hydrofarm light illuminated an area almost 2 feet in diameter when suspended 18 inches above the seedlings. For the best results, consider pairing it with a fixture that comes with a timer to keep from having to turn the light on and off daily.

Product Specs

  • Size: 7.5 inches by 2.5 inches
  • Light color: Cool white
  • Estimated coverage area: 2 feet


  • Very bright
  • Fits in standard light sockets
  • Useful for seedlings or houseplants


  • Just a bulb—fixture needed

Get the Hydrofarm Agrobrite Grow Bulb on Amazon or at Walmart.

Best Monitoring

Phlizon 2022 Upgraded 600W LED Plant Grow Light

For indoor growers concerned about the heat and humidity of their plant’s environment, the Phlizon Grow Light is just the ticket. It comes with a separate temperature and humidity module that can be placed anywhere near the plants.

The light itself offers a range of blue and red light waves. We mounted the Phlizon light over a potted ivy plant that was showing signs of fatigue after a long winter indoors. We selected a combination of blue, red, and white light in order to stimulate new leaf growth and improve its green color. After 3 weeks under the light—we saw marked improvement in the ivy’s overall health. New, tiny leaves appeared along the vining stems, and the foliage color improved dramatically.

That said, the Phlizon is probably better suited to growing multiple plants rather than boosting the health of a single houseplant. Users can choose between either red or blue light, depending on their plants’ needs. At 18 inches high, the oblong light provides enough light for a 1.5-foot by nearly 3-foot area. It comes with everything we needed to hang it from an overhead support, and it features a handy pulley system for raising the light as plants grow taller.

Product Specs

  • Size: 6.7 inches by 15.7 inches
  • Light color: Blue, red, and white
  • Estimated coverage area: 1.5 feet by almost 3 feet


  • Well made
  • Ability to select light color
  • Pulley system for adjusting height


Get the Phlizon Grow Light on Amazon.

Our Verdict

All of the grow lights in our lineup are suitable for supplementing natural and ambient light to enhance plant growth and health. Our best overall pick, a set of two Hytekgro LED Light Panels ticks off all the boxes—offering full-spectrum light and comprehensive coverage for the average indoor gardener. For those looking for the benefit of added illumination without investing a lot, the GE Full Spectrum Grow Bulb is among the best options. It offers ample light and can be used in an existing lamp or fixture to save money.

How We Tested the Best Grow Lights

After reading information about the benefits of grow lights, we wanted to determine for ourselves whether the hype was true. While we’re not professional growers by a long shot—we do enjoy starting seeds, and we have several houseplants that always seem a bit on the leggy side due to inadequate light.

We tried to keep the testing as scientific as possible by providing the recommended amount of light—by plant type—with the grow lights. To determine each light’s practical coverage, we darkened the room, turned on the grow light, and then measured the distance of the brightest part of the light pattern.

We tested timers on the lights that came with them to see how accurate they were, and we frequently tested for heat generation by putting our hands beneath the grow lights to see if they were producing heat or not. We recorded our observations and awarded points based on a rubric throughout the testing.

We observed the plants and noted any significant changes, but keep in mind that this part was subjective since we used different plants, including seedlings, houseplants, and overwintered patio plants. In addition, they were all in various states of health when we began the testing.

We selected the grow lights for testing based on manufacturer reputation, such as the GE Hydrofarm light. Still, we didn’t automatically eliminate lights made by smaller manufacturers as long as they provided an ample amount of light and were well made.

After the tests, we added up the accumulated points and used them to create the best category for the individual grow lights. While each is better suited to specific situations, any of the models in our lineup will benefit various growing situations.


Grow lights open up a whole world of indoor gardening possibilities. From starting seeds to transplant outdoors to overwintering houseplants, grow lights are a popular and economical way for keeping all types of plants healthy, even if they’re tucked in the back corner of a dimly lit room. Those looking to boost their plants’ health with grow lights will likely have questions.

What is the best brand of LED grow light?

Today’s best grow light brands include well-known names such as GE and Phillips and up-and-comers, such as Hydrofarm.

What color grow light is best for houseplants?

Cooler, white light is beneficial for producing healthy foliage in houseplants, but those who are hoping to see some blossoms or fruit, will want to expose their indoor plants to warmer, yellower light.

What color light do plants grow best in?

While plant needs vary, most plants do best with full-spectrum light that contains red, blue, green, and yellow waves. Interestingly, full-spectrum lights often look white to the naked eye, although they contain a variety of colors.

Disclosure: participates in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for publishers to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites.

Best Grow Lights for Seedlings Reviews: Complete Buyer’s Guide

Are you looking for the best grow lights for seedlings? Read on as we review all the top options with Pros & Cons.

Preparing yourself with a veggie garden is a great way to safeguard your family against food shortages. Speak to any vegetable farmer or hobbyist gardener, and they’ll tell you that the biggest challenge with growing your garden comes from managing the seedling phase of development.

Most beginner gardeners fail at this stage, causing stress in the plant that delays growth. If you want to start your veggie garden like a pro, you need the best grow light for seedlings. A grow light imitates the rays of the sun in a specific spectrum, providing your seedlings with the optimal light spectrum they need for speedy growth.

With growing zones expected to shift on the coming Grand Solar Minimum, a seedling grow light can help you get an early start on the growing season. As a result, you get more harvests per year, increasing your food stockpile.

In this review, we’ll look at the best grow lights for seedlings and make our recommendations on top products for your indoor garden.

Our Top Picks

If you want to skip on the rest of the review, and get right to the bottom line, check out this section. We scoured hundreds of online listings to settle on our top three choices for the best overall, premium, and budget grow lights for your indoor garden.

We selected these three models, giving you options to suit your gardening requirements and your budget.

Best Pick: Root Farm All-Purpose LED Grow Light

  • This 45 watt grow light is specially designed to grow a wide variety of plants from seed to harvest
  • Grow your favorite veggies fruits and flowers 365 days a Year
  • Versatile design adapts as plants grow
  • LED recipe specially designed to grow plants indoors
  • LED light provides more power with less energy compared to more traditional lights like CFLs

This model takes our top award for the best overall seedling grow light. This model features a sturdy, freestanding design, with an overhead canopy light for your seedling tray. This grow light comes with an all-purpose LED grow light, providing a suitable spectrum that raises your plants from seedlings to healthy adults. The adjustable legs on the stand allow you to lift or drop the light to the correct distance from the canopy, ensuring speedy growth in your seedlings. The 45-Watt capacity and blend of red and blue LEDs provide optimal lighting conditions for your plants. This model comes with a hanging rig and power adapter included.

Premium Pick: Future Harvest Developer

  • Indoor herb garden: The SunBlaster Growlight Garden is ideal for growing microgreens, herbs, flowers or your favorite plants year-round; this indoor garden is great for home growers with limited space
  • T5HO full spectrum grow lights: The 12-inch, 11-watt T5HO 6400K grow lights help maintain your plants year-round while the NanoTech reflectors reduce heat buildup and maximize performance by reflecting 100% of the light towards the plants
  • Adjustable lighting canopy: The grow light canopy easily adjusts to a maximum of 17 inches to get the right amount of light to the plants, seeds or transplants below
  • Self watering for up to 14 days: Includes a raised platform insert and capillary matting allowing plants to self water for up to 14 days (depending on growing conditions), ensuring optimum growth
  • The SunBlaster Growlight Garden comes with 4 reusable seedling starter trays, allowing you to grow a single crop or a variety of plants, herbs and microgreens

The Future Harvest Developer wins our top award for the best premium seedling grow light in this review. With this model, you get Sun-blaster 6400K T5HO LED lamps, providing 48-Watts of total light to your plants. There’s an adjustable hood to accommodate your seedlings development, with nanotech reflectors to enhance the light on all sides of the plants. You get four seedling trays included with this farm, and efficient operation, using 20% less energy than other leading indoor grow light systems.

Budget Pick: Elaine Indoor LED Grow Light

  • Sunlight Full-Spectrum: Perfect grow light with 132 high quality(10,0000 hours lifetime),high par value(120 μmol/m2·s at 12in) and high efficiecy LED chips,3 head grow lamp with timer,the wave of the light from 380nm to 820nm.Suitable for both home & office.
  • Timer & Auto On/off Function: Comes with 3 timer setting options which allows up to 3,6,or12 hours according to plant needs.Also has two-way memory timing function,set up once and it will turn on and off automatically EVERY DAY!
  • High-Efficiency: Larger illumination area 120° beam angle and 18 inch gooseneck.Provide 360-degree illumination for your plants,High-efficiency and scientific heat dissipation design,make your plants grow faster and healthier,effectively promotes photosynthesis, increases growth rate,and satisfies plant germination, growth, flowering,and results entire process of light energy needs!
  • 5 Brightness & 3 Switch Modes: 5 adjustable brightness to suit varied stages of plant growth,and 3 Switch Modes One light on,Two lights on and Three lights on.360-degree flexible gooseneck with clip that can easily adjust the angle and distance,which enlarge the illumination area and provided more efficient lighting for more plants.
  • Widely Used:This Grow lamp has more larger lighting area that is suitable for whole growth circle. Perfect for balconies,greenhouses,darkroom,office and so on. Powerful Clip

This elaine model is a great choice for starting your plants indoors. You get three light arms, featuring 20-Watts each, for total lighting power of 60-Watts. They feature five dimming levels and a built-in timer for three, six, and 12-hour light cycles. This model is affordable, and it comes with three brightness modes to help your seedlings adjust to stronger light as they develop. The flexible goosenecks allow for custom positioning above the canopy, with two-way memory timing to your preferred settings.

Grow Lights for Seedlings Reviews

After reading through the reviews of our top models, let’s unpack them further. We’ll also look at other models that qualify for the best grow light for seedlings.

After reading through the reviews, make sure you check out our buyer’s guide section. We’ll walk you through everything you need to know about choosing the right indoor lighting system for your seedlings.

Root Farm All-Purpose LED Grow Light

Growing seedlings for your veggie garden or indoor flower display require you to mimic natural sunlight to help the plants produce food for growth. This Root Farm model is an excellent example of a top-quality indoor lighting system.

With this model, you get compatibility with Root Farm seedlings trays (sold separately). The frame on this lighting system features telescopic legs with release and locking buttons available in various positions to suit your canopy height.

Start your plants indoors early this season using the Root Farm indoor LED lighting system. With this model, you get an attractive display for your indoor garden, featuring clean design and the use of aluminum materials in the frame for a classy finish.

This model includes a powerful 45-Watt LED light setup. It offers a good balance for red and blue light, providing plants with optimal growth in the seedling stage. There is a hanging kit and a power adapter included with your purchase.

  • 45-Watt output
  • Good LED balance and PAR output
  • Adjustable legs with locking and release mechanism
  • Clean design
  • Energy efficient
  • Comes with a hanging kit

Future Harvest Developer

If you’re a home gardener looking to propagate cuttings or grow seedlings for your veggie garden, this indoor grow light is a great choice for starting your seedlings early.

You get a complete system included with this kit, featuring four seedling trays, a reflector canopy, and Sun-blaster 6400K LED lights.

The hood and reflector increase light absorption by your plants by up to 20%. You get two rows of LED lights, each offering a 24-Watt output, for a combined light output of 48-Watts total. The hood sits on a frame, allowing for adjustment to suit your canopy height.

This model is the ideal choice for homeowners looking for a complete lighting and growing system for indoor use. It’s easy to set up, with a plug-and-play operation for your seedlings.

  • An excellent choice for hobbyist gardeners
  • Includes four seedling trays
  • Canopy with reflectors included
  • Adjustable canopy height
  • Sun-blaster 6400K lamps included
  • 2 x 24-Watt output for 48-Watts total

Elaine Indoor LED Grow Light

If you’re looking for an indoor grow light on a budget, we recommend this model from Elaine. This indoor grow lamp wins not only our best budget model in this review, but it’s Amazon’s top choice as well.

With the Elaine indoor grow light, you get three gooseneck arms supporting three T5 LED lights. Each light offers a 20-Wat output, for a total light output of 60-Watts. Each light comes with a full-spectrum LED set up, and you have the option of choosing between three lighting modes to suit your seedling development.

This indoor grow light features a desk clamp design, allowing you to secure it to tabletops and windowsills in seconds. The Gooseneck arms on the lights allow for customizable height selection to suit your canopy.

This lighting system also includes a three-stage timer for three, six, and twelve-hour light cycles. You get high-quality LEDs included with this model, providing up to 50,000-hours service life.

  • Affordable
  • Powerful 60-Watt light output
  • Five dimming options
  • Adjustable goosenecks
  • Timer included
  • Three switch modes

VeRosky LED Grow Light

If you’re looking for professional-grade equipment for your indoor garden, we recommend this model from VeRosky lighting.

This SMD grow light features design and construction with 300 SMD LED chips, providing reduced heat during operation, and no LED burn on your plants.

This model produces up to 3X more lumen per LED, featuring a 90-degree reflector to reduce light loss by up to 30%. The triple LED chips to enhance plant photosynthesis, increasing crop yield, and the size of your seedlings when transplant season rolls around.

This model comes with a complete light spectrum for vegetative growth and flowering.

You get a hanging design, with easy access to the on/off switch. The fans keep the light cool, and you get a total light output of 1,000-Watts.

  • Powerful 1,000-Watt output for larger seedling farms
  • PAR levels three times above competitive models
  • Full-spectrum light for flowering and vegetative growth
  • Reflector included
  • Efficient operation
  • SMD LED chips for extended service life

Barrina Grow Light

If you’re looking to build a large indoor garden, we recommend going with the Barrina model.

This indoor grow light offers you full-spectrum grow lamps, featuring 384 LEDs, producing a light output of 96-Watts. These lights have the same lumen output as traditional 600-Watt models, with improved efficiency and low energy consumption.

The high-efficiency LEDs produce a light spectrum that’s 95% absorbed by your plants, speeding growth while increasing yield. The aluminum reflector enhances light output by up to 20%, with long service life.

The Barrina indoor grow lights feature easy installation, with plug-and-play operation. You can daisy-chain up to four of these lights together for the largest indoor setups. You get a hanging design and all mounting hardware included with your purchase.

  • Professional-grade equipment
  • Super bright 96-Watt output
  • Reflector provides a 20% increase in efficiency
  • 384-total LEDs
  • Plants absorb 95% of light energy with this model
  • Plug-and-play operation

Super Sprouter Deluxe Propagation Kit

If you’re looking for a quick start for your seedlings this summer, we recommend the Super Sprouter Deluxe Propagation Kit. This model features an enclosed environment for your seedlings, ensuring your plants’ best chances of survival.

The Super Sprouter comes with a 10″ x 20″ seedling tray and a propagator hood. The propagator hood increases temperature and humidity inside the unit by creating a greenhouse effect. The clear canopy allows for optimal light penetration for the 18-inch T5 LED light mounted into the hood.

You get plug-and-play operation right out of the box; with everything you need to get a great start on your veggie or herb garden this year. Use this model to grow seedlings or your favorite cuttings, providing the optimal growing environment for younger plants.

  • Ideal for growing sprouts
  • Hood included for micro-climate
  • A good choice for propagating cuttings
  • Seed tray included
  • Complete system
  • 18-inch T5 grow light included

Elaine Tri-Light Indoor Grow Lamps

Elaine gets a second mention in this review for the best grow light for seedlings.

This model features the same desk clamp design, fitting to windowsills, tables, and desks. You get three gooseneck stands featuring light setups with 132 high-quality LEDs, offering a service life of 10,000-hours.

The 18-inch gooseneck design of the lamps makes it easy to adjust them to the canopy height. You get three light settings for your preferred spectrum, with full-spectrum lighting available. This model comes with five dimmable modes to replicate sunlight hours.

This model comes with three timer settings for 3-hour, 6-hour, and 12-hour light cycles for your seedlings.

You get a 120-degree beam angle, with 360-degree illumination of your plants. This high-efficiency model features a 20-Watt output per light, offering 60-Watts of total light output.

  • Three 20-Watt LEDs for a 60-Watt total output
  • High-efficiency LED chips for 10,000-hour service life
  • Three timer settings and auto on/off
  • 120-degree beam angle
  • Flexible gooseneck adjusts to canopy height

Ankace LED Growth Light

This Ankace indoor grow light is a great choice for starting your seedlings earlier this year. This model comes with four 11-inch gooseneck arms, allowing for a customizable setup to match your canopy height.

There are three light settings, with a full-spectrum setting available, and you get five dimming modes to replicate the daylight hours. This model includes a desk-clamp desk, allowing for easy setup on desks, windowsills, and tables.

This model comes with a 3-stage timer, offering you 3-hour, 6-hour, and 12-hour light cycles for easy operation.

You get plenty of coverage with this model, including a light output of 20-Watts per gooseneck, providing a total of 80-Watts of light output.

  • Four 20-Watt LED arms
  • Flexible goosenecks for adjustable canopy height
  • Three lighting modes with a full spectrum
  • Five dimming modes
  • Affordable price
  • Three cycle timer

CXhome T5 LED Grow Light Strip

This CXhome model is a great choice for homeowners building a custom indoor seedling garden. These light strips attach to shelves, providing you with a custom fit to your application.

The CXhome LED lighting system includes three lighting tubes, featuring high-efficiency, full-spectrum LEDs. You get three lighting settings, along with 10-dimming options, to adjust the light to your preference.

This model comes with a three-stage timer, allowing 3-hour, 6-hour, and 12-hour light cycles. The auto on/off button gives you total control over the lighting system for efficient and effective light cycles.

This indoor grow light includes an aviation-grade radiator material, dispersing heat for cool operation, even if you’re running 24-hour light cycles.

  • T5 LEDs for full light spectrum
  • High-efficiency LEDs
  • Three-tube switching and 10-level dimming functions
  • Three timer settings
  • Scientific heat dissipation design

Byingo 2ft 32W Plant Grow Light

This full spectrum grow light for seedlings rounds off our review. You get a full-spectrum design suitable for vegetative or flowering stages, with a long tube design.

This model includes high-efficiency LEDs, with a polished aluminum shell that reflects more light.

This model comes ready for use right out of the box, with plug-and-play operation and a 4.9-foot power cord. The LEDs offer low power consumption, reducing the cost of your electricity bill.

You get an extendable design, allowing you to daisy-chain up to four lights together for the largest setups.

  • High-power indoor grow light
  • High-efficiency operation
  • Plug-and-play operation
  • Extendable design
  • Full light spectrum

Other Best Selling Options

  • PERFECT FOR INDOOR PLANTS: Optimised full spectrum white LED grow light with enhanced 660nm red light, no harm to eyes, healthier and more efficient. Great for seed starting, propagating cuttings and growing indoor flowers vegetables and other houseplants.
  • EASILY ADJUSTABLE AND STURDY: Upated Iron Frame Structure, More Sturdy. LED Light height adjustable.
  • PREMIUM QUALITY: T5 LED grow light shoplight fixture with wide reflector provides maximum coverage,ETL Listed.Safe and reliable.
  • ENERGY EFFICIENT: Use High efficiency, high output LEDs, longer life span, energy saving up to 70% on your electricity bill. Save your money.
  • PERFECTLY SIZE for Seedling trays,also for growing pot plants on the table.
  • 【5 Head 150 LEDs Plant Light for Indoor Plants】This plant growing lamp consists of 150 effective growing LEDs, divided into 120 white LEDs and 30 red LEDs. The 5 heads grow light for indoor plants supplies a broader lighting range than the traditional 2, 3, and 4 heads indoor plants lights, and increases the intensity of the light by up to 50%, allowing your plants to receive better and extra light energy.
  • 【3 Spectrum Modes & 10 Brightness Levels】The full spectrum led grow light has 3 spectrum modes, which are Red, Full, and Mixed Spectrum. It has ten brightness settings, starting from 10% to 100%, that can be switched as per your requirements, so you are able to choose the more proper spectrum and brightness for your plant to grow in the best way. The indoor plant lights make your plants develop a rapid response to grow, five times faster than plants with natural light only.
  • 【Auto Timer Function & On/Off Cycle】Designed with a function for autocycle memory timing, there are different three timer settings for you to choose from, between 3H, 9H, and 12H of lighting time. Following your setting, the plant grow light will switch on/off automatically every day. Even when you are away from home, these grow light lamps will take good care of your plants every day.
  • 【Flexible Gooseneck Neck & Strong Clip】You can place and clamp the 5 head grow light anywhere as it has a strong clip and bracket support for it to be stable. The indoor grow lights have a 360 rotation design that can be independently adjustable, so each can be rotated to any angle to adapt to your requirements, which supplies a wider and more flexible range of light, and different growing directions.
  • 【Designed for Indoor Plants to Growth】These plant lights for indoor growing is perfect for the different sunlight needs of your plants depending on their growing stage, from seeds to every growing phase. The lamps have an excellent performance of fast heat dissipation, which ensures that these lamps provide you with a long-lasting and durable service life of up to 80,000 hours.
  • PRODUCT DETAILS: Gardener’s Supply Indoor Greenhouse Plant Grow Light System Set The frame is made from 100% heavy duty powder coated aluminum steel with movable caster wheels for flexibility and easy maneuvering. Comes with three watertight shelf trays and three light fixtures; each holds three 4 foot, full-spectrum T5 fluorescent bulbs which showcase the natural beauty of our indoor garden.
  • BEST USE FOR: Indoor Plant Gardening and Herb Succulent Growing Our Vermont-made SunLite Gardens give your Plants the quality and intensity of light they need, and this 3-tier model has plenty of room for a variety of Plants. You can start seeds, grow herbs and houseplants, or even try your hand at growing orchids
  • HIGH QUALITY BUILT: Gardeners Supply Company EXCLUSIVE – MADE IN THE USA. MEASUREMENTS: -Frame Size: 51″” L x 14-5/8″” W x 68-1/2″” H – Made with Rugged powder-Coated Aluminum frame that is sturdy enough with large room to grow your potted and aerogarden Plants. -Each fixture holds two 4′ long, full-spectrum T5 fluorescent bulbs and can be easily adjust to the proper height for optimal plant growth. -Includes three watertight shelf trays to protect your floors from water and soil spillage
  • VERSATILE AND EASY MANEUVERING: Our Grow Light Plant Stand System is specially design for versatility and Easy Access for our Indoor Garden needs. With its movable caster wheels, it is easier to maneuver the plant shelf and clean underneath or behind it without moving all the Plants one-by-one. Also, it adds elagance to our home interior design promoting clean oxygen inside the house.
  • INDOOR GARDEN TESTED & GUARANTEED: Every purchase you make is 100% guaranteed. We will exchange or refund your purchase for any product that is not what you expected or does not work as described during its lifetime.
  • 【3 Color Settings & 5 Levels Dimmable】There are 3 color modes – Purple Light,3500K White Light and Mixed White Light, infinite close to natural light,best for plants at all growing stages. Also it support you to adjust the brightness within 20%-100% by operating the remote attached.
  • 【Auto On/Off Timer】this growing lamp will automatically keeps 4hrs/8hrs/12hrs ON and 20hrs/16hrs/12hrs OFF each 24 hour period once timer activated. Which requires no manual operation and takes good care of your plants when you on work or vacation.
  • 【360° Gooseneck & Easy to Use】flexible goosenecks with clip can be rotated 360 degrees make it easier for you to adjust the angle between the plant lamp and indoor plant. Powered by USB or AC Power Plug(USB power adapter included ),it’s portable and convenient to use at home or in the office.
  • 【Professional Full Spectrum 】Compared to other 40LED tri-head growing light, Juhefa’s was equipped with 60 LED and Lastest Drive Processor Chip.Its illumination is wider and brighter ,achieve 360-degree coverage of plants.
  • 【Widely Used】A best gift for gardening,family balcony seedings,breeding,potted plants. It can effectively supplemented the lack of natural sunlight and promoted the growth of plants at all stages.【18-Month Warranty!】
  • Auto turn on and off timing function
  • Red and blue led combination
  • 9 dimmable modes
  • 3 cycle timing modes
  • Suitable for indoor potted plants or indoor gardens

Grow Lights Buyer’s Guide

Plants require air, water, and light to grow. When the winter pulls around, the days get shorter, and the sun’s rays lose intensity. As a result, it’s challenging to grow plants until the ground thaws in the spring.

If you live in the Northern Hemisphere, that means you can only put plants in your vegetable garden or flowerbeds when it’s mid-spring. Unfortunately, the shorter seasons in the Northern Hemisphere mean you don’t get a longer growing season than you do in the south.

If you want to get more out of your garden this year, you’re going to need to start your plants indoors. To achieve growth indoors, you need an indoor grow lamp to provide your plants with the chance to produce food to thrive.

It’s easy to reproduce the effects of rain and air. However, lighting presents the biggest challenge to replicate indoors. Leaving your plants on the windowsill won’t work – you need an indoor grow light for your seedlings.

Why Do I Need a Grow Light for My Seedlings?

An indoor grow light for your plants mimics the sun’s rays, providing you with a source of light energy for your seedlings. Your seedlings can’t tell the difference between the grow light and the sun, as the grow light emits the same lightwaves.

Therefore, you can start your plants four to six weeks early, transplanting them into the garden as the ground thaws and spring starts. This strategy gives you a longer growing season and an additional harvest.

Indoor grow lights allow you to start early, and your plants should be ready for transplanting as soon as the spring gets into swing.

Features to Look for

When purchasing the best grow light for seedlings, we recommend looking for the following features in a prospective model.

LED Lights

All modern grow lights feature design with LED technology. LED is effective and affordable to run. It’s the best way to give your plants the optimal spectrum they need for growth. LEDs have a longer service life than fluorescent, incandescent, or metal halide bulbs, and they use less electricity.

LED Output and Power

When selecting your ideal indoor grow light, we recommend looking at the LEDs’ output in your prospective light. The average small grow light for seedlings needs between 45-Watts to 80-Watts of light output. That’s enough lumens to help your plants achieve optimal growth.

LED Quality

The quality of the LEDs in your grow light makes an enormous difference in service life. The average high-quality T5 LED should provide you with at least 10,000-hours of service life before replacement.

Light Spectrum

It’s critical that you look at the wavelength emitted by the device when purchasing your grow light. Plants require full-spectrum light for the best growing results. Look for models featuring a full PAR spectrum, offering both red and blue wavelengths. Some models will also feature white-light.

Lighting Modes

Your LED grow light should feature different lighting modes. Look for models offering blue, red, and full-spectrum modes for your choice of growing conditions. The lighting modes affect your plants and how they grow.

PAR refers to the balance of red, blue, and white light in your LEDs. Top models feature high PAR ratings, giving you the best performance out of your new grow light.


The best grow light for seedlings come with timers. You get the option of setting your light cycle to 3-hours, 6-hours, or 12-hours, depending on your plant’s needs.

A timer is a handy feature in your light, allowing you to control the light cycle. However, if your model doesn’t come with a timer, you’ll have to purchase one separately or rely on manual operation.


A reflector helps increase the light intensity from the LEDs, amplifying the light output. Some reflectors can increase lumen count by up to 30%, depending on the design and materials used in the reflector. The best reflectors feature design and construction with polished aluminum or mylar materials.

A reflector is not an essential piece of equipment for your grow light. However, we recommend looking at models with reflectors to speed up your seedling growth. Some models come with detachable hoods, while others have permanent fixtures.

Propagator Hoods

If you’re starting cuttings, then you need a humid environment to help with the rooting process. A propagator is a type of lighting setup involving a seedling tray and a clear hood, with an LED light on top.

This setup allows you to contain humidity and heat inside the growing area. As a result, your plants root faster. Propagation kits are also good choices for growing seedlings. The additional moisture and warmth accelerate growth.

Adjustable Light Height

As your plants are growing, you need to move the light up to keep it at the correct distance from the canopy.

If you place the light too close to the plant’s, it results in the burning of foliage and delayed growth. Some models come with gooseneck arms for easy adjustment, while others have hanging cables or telescopic legs for fast adjustment of the light height.

Seedling Trays

Some models include seedling trays, while others don’t. We like the custom setups with integrated seedling trays. They offer you a plug-and-play system that’s ready for use right out of the box. Seedling trays are relatively inexpensive and available at most nurseries and big-box retailers.

What are the Mounting Designs for Indoor Grow Lights?

  • Hanging – Hanging models require installation into your roof or a growing cabinet. They are highly adjustable and can accommodate full-grown plants. They aren’t the best choice for indoor lights due to the advanced setup and mounting required.
  • Freestanding – A freestanding model is convenient and easy to use. You can set it up anywhere in the home, and it’s the ideal choice for starting seedlings. In most cases, freestanding models come as complete kits, but there are plenty of exceptions in this review.
  • Clips – These grow lights feature a clamp design, allowing you to secure them to tales, windowsills, and desks. While they offer a convenient mounting design, they have limited applications around the home.

Grow Lights FAQs

How far do I position the lights from my plants?

We recommend you position your LED lights at least 12 to 30-inches from the canopy. As your seedlings develop, you’ll need to keep adjusting the canopy’s height to accommodate the new growth.

Placing the lights too close to the canopy cause burning on the seedlings. Leaving the light too far from the canopy slows growth.

How many hours of light do seedlings need each day?

According to experts, your plants need at least 16 to 18 hours of light every day during the seedling stage. This lighting cycle provides the plants with the amount of light they receive at the height of the growing season. Don’t set your lights on a 24-hour cycle. Your seedlings need a few hours break from the light to recover from the stress of the growing hours of the day.

What is the best color spectrum for my seedlings?

When purchasing your grow light, it’s vital that you do your research on the system’s output before you finalize your purchase. Red LEDs stimulate flowering and fruiting in your seedlings, and it also mimics the shorter days of the season, allowing you to put your plants into the flowering phase of its lifecycle. Therefore, red light is essential for growth, but it shouldn’t be overwhelming in your grow light. Blue light LEDs assist with the vegetative growth of your plants. It’s the ideal spectrum for seedlings, but you do need to include some red light to balance it out.

Where do I buy the best grow light for seedlings?

We recommend searching for the best grow lights on Amazon. Amazon is the leader in global eCommerce, with the best selection and prices on grow lights. If you’re an Amazon Prime member, you get buyer protection on your order, with fast, free shipping to your doorstep. Amazon offers you a hassle-free returns service if there’s anything wrong with your grow light.

Grow Lights – The Verdict

By now, you should have your eye on a few prospective models for your new seedling grow light. Light is an essential element for development in your plants, and choosing the right lighting system makes a significant difference in your plant’s yield at harvest time.

Start your plants early this season with one of our top choices in this review. If you’re having trouble settling on a model, why not go with one of our top picks?

The Root Farm All-Purpose LED Grow Light wins our award for the best overall seedling grow light. This model comes with a freestanding design and telescopic legs for an adjustable canopy height. You get a good balance of red and blue LEDs, with a 45-Watt capacity that’s ideal for rearing seedlings.

The Future Harvest Developer is our choice for the best premium seedling grow light in this review. This model comes as a complete system, including seedling trays. You get two banks of 24-Watt lights for a powerful 48-Watt total light output. The reflector hood features a telescopic stand to adjust to your canopy height as your seedlings develop.

The Elaine Indoor LED Grow Light is another top choice and the winner of the best budget buy in this review. With this model, you get three flexible gooseneck arms featuring a 20-Watt LED. This model comes with five adjustable dimmer functions and easy adjustment to your canopy height. These grow lights come with high-quality LEDs, offering 50,000-hours of service life at a great price.

Posted on

Do male weed seeds grow

What do I do with a Male Cannabis Plant?

When it comes to cannabis, female plants produce flowers (or buds) and males produce pollen. Unless you plan on breeding, male cannabis plants will release pollen into the growing area and produce unwanted seeds in nearby female flowers. Cannabis flowers with seeds are usually lower in potency and less desirable. Male plants in a flowering room should removed as soon as they are identified.

You will only get a male cannabis plant is you grow from a non-feminized seed. In today’s world, if you get a clone from a trusted friend or local shop, they will always grow to be a female plant. Male and female plants can be easily identified in early flowering by looking for the following characteristics below:

Male cannabis plants have stamens and female plants have calyxes. To the untrained eye, an early calyx and stamen can look quite similar. As the cannabis plant begins to mature, multiple stamens will begin to appear on the males and the females will have pistols emerge from their calyxes. Over time the stamens will fill with pollen and eventually open, releasing it into the growing environment. Once a plant shows clear male characteristics, it should be removed from the flowering area and potentially used for future breeding projects.

How to Pick Male Plants and Make Cannabis Seeds

Why Every Home Grower Should Make Seeds (At Least Once)

I encourage growers to make seeds for themselves. A lot of people have been asking how, so I put together these basic tips. Hopefully, it helps a lot of people and is fairly straightforward. This isn’t meant to make you a breeder or share all my techniques or secrets, this is to familiarize you with the process of creating seeds.

It’s easy to make your own cannabis seeds at home!

It’s a shame that many grow books tell you only to throw away your males. New growers may not know, but anyone who’s grown for even just a few years gets to the point where they wish they still had something they grew in the past, which is no longer available in seed or clone for whatever reason. The older you get the more it happens. Seed lines disappear entirely once they run out, and due to people not making their own. It’s good to be self-sufficient.

While it’s always fun to check out the hard work of your favorite breeders and their strains, it’s equally as important to pollinate a branch or two for yourself here and there and see what magic you can create or preserve. Please share this article if it helps or inspires you. Big agriculture is coming to the cannabis growing world and has the ability to change the plant forever once contamination happens, just like in the veggie world. We are losing genetic diversity fast as thousands of unique strains are lost. Please do your part if you are passionate!

Make your own seeds to save special or unique genetics

How to Make Your Own Cannabis Seeds at Home

These are basic starting points for the home grower. I believe every person who grows cannabis needs to have this skill. Every strain goes away over time when people don’t make more seeds. Growers should know how to make their own seeds for preservation and sustainability. These skills can go a long way. The precursor to serious breeding is the basic technique of creating the seed.

1.) Grow Male Plants

Male plants can be grown in very basic conditions in an isolated space, then flowered for pollen. Males can be started flowering next to females with a close watch for the first week or two, but be careful and remove them before pollen sacks form, bursting open and pollinating everything.

Branches can be cut off and put into a cup of water on a windowsill or under a CFL bulb, even under veg light cycle once they are in bloom. Pollen can be collected within a week from these branches, saving lots of space. Males can also be cloned or flowered very small based on your needs.

Best, however, is flowering the males in their own tent or space. With a carbon filter and negative pressure, and careful practices, you can avoid spreading pollen to unwanted spaces. The longer you flower a male out past its initial beginning release of pollen, the more of its flowering traits you will see! (More on best male plant selection below)

A beautiful male cannabis plant

2.) Collect Pollen

Pollen can be collected by tapping a budding branch gently over a piece of paper. Pollen will spread easily in the air, so make sure to turn off all fans. Visit males only after tending to female plants so you don’t accidentally bring any stray pollen on your clothes or hair!

A male plant right as pollen sacs start opening

3.) Pollinate Buds

Take out your female to be pollinated or shut off all circulation fans. Gently apply pollen to a labeled branch. The pollen must meet the white flowering hairs to create seeds. Week 3-5 is best to pollinate, and you can do a single bud or branch per plant and keep the rest seedless.

Every pollinated branch should be labeled properly, your memory will not last as you think it will. A proper branch label includes dates, strain names, breeder/sources, and has the female listed first and male listed second. An example label looks like this: 4/20/2015 – Star Pupil (Mass Medical Strains) x Prayer Tower Sativa 9 (Bodhi Seeds) and the label should be kept with the seeds when they are finished. As years go by, you will be thankful for the dates and breeder information, which can escape our memory on occasion.

Overhead shot of a seeded cannabis plant. Strain is “Star Pupil”

4.) Deactivate Stray Pollen

Water generally deactivates pollen, wash clothes and shower if needed after handling. 3+ hours after pollination, the plant can be sprayed down with water to deactivate stray pollen and can be brought back into grow room and fans turned back on.

Avoid spreading pollen unintentionally. It can get everywhere!

A male cannabis plant exploding with pollen. Strain: Prayer Tower Sativa (below)

5.) Collect Seeds

Seeds are done in 2-6 weeks and should be dried in the bud when the plant is harvested. Seeds should be sproutable within one month of drying.

Female buds become swollen with seeds

A cannabis seed peaking out

What strains should I use?

Any strain with traits that you like, which speaks to you, or seems like a good cross, means your intuition is telling you something. Starting with stabilized or homogeneous lines is always a benefit. Certain genes such as Cookies, OG, and Diesels, are full of hermaphrodites and should be used with caution, only to be bred with if they are really your #1 passion. Follow your heart.

Crossing two unrelated strains for the first time is called an F1. Crossing a brother and sister F1 of the same strain creates an F2, and so on. Selections play a huge role in what the outcome will be. Making F2 seeds of an F1 you purchased, will not give you the same seeds. Rather, you will see new phenotypes resembling some of the parents and their parents, etc. With huge potential to find new special plants within.

Many combinations will work great, and some will not. If you fail, try again, selecting new parents. Each combination is unique. A and B might work great together, and C and D might work well together, there’s still a possibility that A and C combine to create junk. Every parental combo is unique!

If you see a unique trait that you like, make seeds!

Selection Techniques

Female Plants

Selecting a good female is easy, flower female plants from seed and again from clone to test stability. Smoke test is important. A potential mother plant should have all the high-quality traits that matter to you. Hermaphroditic plants are to be avoided.

Female plants to be pollinated should have all your ideal traits. Use only your best females.

Male Plants

Selecting a male, you have to use your senses a lot. The ones who grow best and smell best are a good starting point. Structure and root growth are important. Hollow stems may indicate high THC potential. Cut the top off a couple nodes down and find out. First showing or fastest flowering males are generally discarded. Very slow blooming late males are often times more recessive although not always. I like them. Males will start to drop pollen before they are “done” flowering enough to see their true traits. As a beginner, you can use the pollen at any stage, but those doing real selections are advised to always flower your males for weeks after the pollen starts.

For male selections, a strain you’ve grown before and enjoyed the females is a safe starting point.

Watch for resin production, look at how the flower clusters stack and produce. The male flowers form similarly to female flowers, large yield potential is often apparent in largely formed male clusters that can look almost like female buds from a distance. The more males you have to choose from, the more fun you will have!

Male plants can be a lot of fun to grow, too. Just like the females of the genetics they come from, they all have their own characteristics and unique traits. Once you get into “hunting males” you could get hooked! Some of my prized male selections from over the years are shown here. You’ll see resin production and traits of large floral clusters, as well as unique coloration!

This male Weapon X cannabis plant is about to pop!

Male Blue Magoo BX looking trippy under LEDs

Strain: Mr. E Reversed

For more advanced breeding selections, I recommend starting ideally a few hundred seeds. (For beginners, as many as you can is great, will help you find the best ones you can. Use your intuition!) Plants can be weeded out every few weeks selecting only the best contenders to flower out, and a lot can be achieved in a spare tent or closet this way, while still selecting through large populations! Clones of a prized breeding male may be kept in veg the same way females are, to be used again and again once their offspring are proven good! This is how a breeder can create the same batch of seeds for years and years, by using the exact same parents held in clone form.


These tips are just the beginning, and the purpose isn’t to teach you how to breed, but to teach you how to learn your own path and style of creating seeds and preserving our very special plant. The seeds you create will always be a very special grow for YOU.

Making your own seeds is more important than ever. We must do our part to preserve the natural genetic diversity of this healing plant as it has evolved for millions of years. Home growing is an important skill as commercial and medical cannabis is increasingly full of toxins and scary new technology. Please grow responsibly with love.

About the Author

Star Pupil strives to copy nature while incorporating breeding techniques and plant knowledge passed down from generations of experienced growers. Mass Medical Strains is located in western Massachusetts and all breeding and growing methods are 100% organic. Each and every plant is grown and harvested with wholesome intentions and positive vibes.

Posted on

Can you pot a weed seed before sprouting

How to Germinate Cannabis Seeds

Germination relates to the process of a new plant growing from a seed. It is the first step when adding to your cannabis garden. You can purchase the requisite seeds from a variety of sources. On the downside, it means that cannabis seeds vary enormously in quality. We recommend looking at reputable online seed banks to get your supply. However, please note that there are legal issues to contend with if you buy seeds. This is especially the case if you decide to buy them from a source outside the United States.

When buying seeds, opt for mature options with a dark brown appearance and a firm feel. Once you have them in your possession, make plenty of space for them to grow and thrive. Learning how to germinate weed seeds correctly is crucial to enjoying years of healthy plants and fruitful harvests. In this guide, we outline the ideal germination conditions and show you five different methods.

Ultimate Guide to Cannabis Seed Germination

In theory, germinating cannabis seeds is a simple affair. They only need three things: Air, water, and heat. The famed ‘paper towel’ method is incredibly easy as long as you follow the steps outlined below. Here is a quick overview of the best germination practices before we show you the various methods.


Be careful not to over-soak your seeds. Hard seeds should be soaked for a maximum of 32 hours, although 24 hours is usually enough. Soaking too long can damage them. Marijuana seeds begin to sprout when they receive the twin signals of water and heat.

Once the right conditions occur, the taproot starts burrowing through the shell of the seed.

If the root breaks through the shell and there is no water, the seedling will die. Keep the roots moist once the seed sprouts, and make sure there is ample moisture at all times.

This is arguably the trickiest aspect of germination. You have to strike a balance between ‘warm’ and ‘hot.’ Spring temperatures are ideal in a ‘normal’ year. While cannabis seeds can germinate in colder weather, the process takes longer. Seedlings also germinate faster when there is plenty of humidity in the air. If you are concerned about low temperatures, invest in incandescent bulbs, and place them over the seed area.

First and foremost, seeds perform at their best when they are left alone! When you check them for the taproot, handle with care! Try to avoid touching the white taproot because it can easily break off.


You don’t have to plant germinated seeds too deep in the soil, or whatever growing medium you choose. 0.5” – 1” below the surface is plenty. Point the white root downwards into the earth to ensure the seedling is ideally oriented.

Are Your Seeds Good or Bad?

Always opt for dark cannabis seeds as they are the most likely to germinate when kept in the right conditions. White or pale-green seeds have little or no chance of growing.

You may have heard the age-old advice on checking for viable seeds. Apparently, if you can crush seeds between your fingers, they are ‘bad.’ First of all, they won’t be good seeds because you have destroyed them! Secondly, experienced growers know that even flimsy seeds can germinate when exposed to the right conditions.

How to Germinate Marijuana Seeds – 5 Methods

1 – The Paper Towel Method

This is the easiest method and requires cannabis seeds, paper towels, and two clean plates. A word of advice: Choose cheap paper towels because they are non-porous. As a result, you can lay seeds and roots on the surface and not worry about them getting stuck. If you use high-quality paper towels, the roots will grow into them!

It is a simple method, but also a risky one. You could damage the taproot while moving the sprouted seeds, or else the paper could dry out and kill the seeds. In any case, here is the process:

  1. Use up to four sheets of paper towel and soak them in distilled water. While you must soak the sheet, make sure there is no water dripping off.
  2. Place two of the paper sheets on one of the plates. Lay the seeds down at least 1” away from one another. Cover with the other two layers of paper towel.
  3. Cover the seeds with the second plate to lock in moisture. You have created a low-cost dome! Make sure you check the seeds often to see if they have sprouted.
  4. Keep the seeds in a room where the temperature is between 70- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit.
  5. Now you must wait! Seeds typically sprout within 1-4 days, although older seeds often take up to a week.
  6. When checking the seeds, make sure the sheets are saturated. If they are drying out, add more water.

You will know that germination has occurred because the seed will split, and a little root appears. Make sure you don’t touch the taproot when it sprouts or during the transplantation process.

EDITOR’S CHOICE – Homegrown CannabisCo

Homegrown CannabisCo are the masters when it comes to seeds. Offering a massive variety of cannabis seeds that are well categorized, not only does this company create a resource for superb quality options including feminized seeds, it also provides extensive growing information for those looking for some support along their journey.

2 – Direct Planting

In nature, a marijuana seed will germinate in the soil and emerge with its taproot growing into the earth. Therefore, you can plant cannabis seeds straight into your growing medium of choice. The main benefit here is that you don’t have to worry about ‘shocking’ the seedling while transporting it.

Your seedling should instantly adjust to the new environment and grow. When using this method, dig a hole 0.5” – 1” deep in soil that is moist but not saturated. Keep things warm with a heating pad or lighting.

3 – Starter Cubes and Seedling Plugs

This has been championed as the easiest germination method. It is effectively a foolproof method. All you have to do is place the seed into the cube/plug and add water. Assuming you put the seeds in a room with the right temperature, germination should occur automatically within a few days. There is a pre-made hole for the seeds, so it is a ‘set it and forget it’ method.

The main downside with this germination method is that such plugs are generally available in packs of 50. Waste is inevitable if you only plan on planting a few cannabis seeds. The plugs dry out in a week or so and become unusable.

You can also use Rockwool cubes as they are cheap and easy to find. However, they are a terrible burden on the environment and bad for your health. Rockwool also has a high pH (which means you must rinse the cubes first) and offers a low cloning and germination success rate.

4 – Overnight Soaking

This is as simple as option #3. It involves nothing more than placing the seeds in a glass of lukewarm water overnight. It is a good idea if you’re using old and hard seeds. The soaking process can breathe new life into them. When you place the seeds in water, they float for a few hours before sinking to the bottom.

The soaking process can breathe new life into old seeds.

If you use a transparent container such as glass, you get to see the white taproot break out! You shouldn’t leave seeds soaking in water for more than 32 hours. Otherwise, seeds that haven’t sprouted yet will drown. If the seeds haven’t germinated by the 32-hour mark, put them in a warm and moist place to complete the process. You should probably use the paper towel method at this point.

5 – A Germination Station

You can purchase a readymade version online. Alternatively, attempt a DIY station by placing a plastic dome over a plate that you then add to a heating pad. Professionally made stations are relatively inexpensive and work rather well. You can buy one for under $40, and their plastic tops ensure better humidity control. With top brands, all you have to do is choose your growing media and plugs to start growing.

Transplanting Germinated Cannabis Seeds

There is no room for a delay once your cannabis seeds have begun to sprout. Now is the time to transfer the seed to its growing medium. Most growers prefer to use small pots, to begin with. Make sure you fill enough pots with loose potting soil and use a pencil to poke a hole around 0.25” deep. Remember, you could break the taproot very easily. Transfer it using tweezers and drop the seed into the hole with the root facing down. Finally, cover it with a thin layer of soil.

For the first few days, use a spray bottle to water the seeds, because adding too much water can drown them. It is worth investing in a pH meter to test the soil regularly and make sure it has enough moisture. If all goes well, the seed should sprout from the earth within a week. If it hasn’t sprouted within ten days, it will probably die.

Turn on your grow light once you have planted the seeds. The heat improves germination rates and speeds up the process of the seedlings opening their first set of leaves. These leaves will remain yellow until exposed to a sufficient level of light in any case. When you plant multiple seeds, you will find that they grow at different rates.

Inevitably, some will fail, while others will flourish. You will have seeds that pop fast and proliferate. Don’t be disappointed if you have a few failures because that’s part and parcel of the growing process. Even when you get everything right, you will inevitably lose a few seeds, and it won’t be your fault!

EDITOR’S CHOICE – Homegrown CannabisCo

Homegrown CannabisCo are the masters when it comes to seeds. Offering a massive variety of cannabis seeds that are well categorized, not only does this company create a resource for superb quality options including feminized seeds, it also provides extensive growing information for those looking for some support along their journey.

We know D.C. Get our free newsletter to stay in the know.

If you love City Paper, get it every day in our newsletter.

Hopefully all of you aspiring growers have been able to get your seeds so we can move to the next step: germination.

Take great care handling seed and seedling. Most flower and vegetable seeds are simply planted directly in the soil, but because of the value of cannabis seeds, germinating seeds prior to planting is encouraged. Growers can achieve a much higher survival rate by germinating in a non-soil medium and then transferring the seed to soil once the tap root has emerged from the seed.

Here is one of the simplest and most successful methods: Put a double layer of paper towels on a dinner plate, then thoroughly soak the towels with water and tilt the plate to drain off the excess. Place your seeds on top of the wet towels and cover with another double layer of soaked paper towels. Be sure excess water is drained off—you don’t want the seeds to be swimming.

Cover the plate with an upside-down plate or pot lid. A plastic bag or plastic wrap also works. Don’t make the seal tight—you want to leave some openings to allow air flow.

Keep the germinating seeds away from direct light. For best results, keep them at about 75 degrees Fahrenheit. A radiant heat source, like a heating pad, helps expedite the process. If you’re using a heating pad, be sure to keep the heat setting on low and place a folded hand towel between the heating pad and plate: Direct contact between the plate and heat source can cook your seeds.

Under the right conditions, seeds usually open in one to five days, so check them daily. Do not allow the towels to dry, and add water as needed to maintain moisture. Some seeds can take as long as 10 days to germinate, but if seeds have not opened within 10 days, they are not viable.

When the seeds open, the first thing to emerge is the root. Once the root sprouts it can grow quite fast.

When the root grows to a few millimeters in length, the seed is ready to be transferred to soil. Always take great care not to damage the tap root when handling. The best soil to use for a sprouting baby ganja plant is a “seed starter” or “seedling” mix. These are light neutral blends with very little fertilizer. Heavily fertilized soils will kill seedlings quickly, and cannabis seedlings prefer loose, aerated soil that their roots can easily penetrate. A bag of good starter soil is easily identifiable: When you pick it up, it should feel light and fluffy. Soils that are heavy and compact are not good for seedlings.

Now, on to potting (no pun intended). A healthy seedling will be ready for transplanting into larger container, with richer soil, in about a month. A 16- to 20-ounce container is ideal for a seedling’s first home (many growers use a Solo cup). The container must drain, so punch some holes if needed.

Fill your container with pre-moistened soil and create a hole about a half-inch deep for your seed. The tip of a pencil works well for making the right sized hole. The seed should be about a quarter-inch below the surface.

Place your germinated seed, root down, into the hole and cover lightly. Do not pack the soil on top of the seed; a light protective layer of soil is all that is needed.

Once they sprout in one to three days, new seedlings will need lots of light, and fluorescent grow light works best. Give your baby ganja plants 16 hours of light per day.

It’s very important to have a breeze on your plants immediately. A fan placed at the proper distance and speed should create a breeze just strong enough so your plant “dances,” but not so strong that it’s bent in one direction.

Without a breeze, indoor ganja plants won’t receive the stimulus needed to develop sturdy stems and branches, which the plant will need to bear the weight of big, sugary buds.

The Potanist is written by Bud Baker and Herb Green (yes, those are pseudonyms; yes, they are real people). Reach them at [email protected]

Graphics by Stephanie Rudig

This isn’t a paywall.

We don’t have one. Readers like you keep our work free for everyone to read. If you think that it’s important to have high quality local reporting we hope you’ll support our work with a monthly contribution.

How to germinate cannabis seeds

So, you’ve decided to grow your own cannabis plants. You purchased a pack of seeds, assembled cultivation materials, cleared a space in your garden, and are ready to grow your first cannabis crop . With everything in hand, it’s time to begin the very first step of cannabis cultivation : germinating seeds.

What is germination?

Germination is the first stage of the cannabis growth cycle : the process that brings a cannabis seed out of its hibernation period and starts the cannabis growth process. After all, seeds in a bag don’t spontaneously start developing roots. Also known as “popping” seeds, seed germination begins when a seed receives environmental cues letting it know the setting is perfect to start growth.

Germination is the process that brings a cannabis seed out of its hibernation period and starts the cannabis growth process. Photo by: Gina Coleman/Weedmaps

Image lightbox

When a seed enters an environment with enough moisture, it will increase in size and slowly break out of its shell. A seedling or germ forms from which roots will emerge, helping the baby plant absorb nutrients from the soil. Seeds naturally develop roots facing down and stems stretching upward, allowing the young cannabis plant to simultaneously feed off light and earth.

It’s essential to acquire high-quality cannabis seeds for germination, as these will go on to become high-quality cannabis plants. Seeds that are fresh-feeling or too green indicate that they haven’t reached full maturity, while pale-green, white, or very dark cannabis seeds may have trouble sprouting. However, it’s tricky to know the outcome of a popped seed, so trying may be worthwhile. If you’re not ready to pop your seeds yet, store them in a dark, cool place until it’s time for germination.

Preparing to germinate cannabis seeds

Germination itself is a crucial aspect of cannabis cultivation. The seed germination process is the foundation of every marijuana plant, and steps can be taken to boost successful popping. For example, some cultivators improve germination attempts by soaking seeds in 1% hydrogen peroxide or a compost tea for 12 hours beforehand to kill any dangerous pests.

The environment in which seeds germinate also plays a role in the outcome. While there are several different germination methods, each requires proper moisture, minimal handling, and warm springtime temperatures between 68-72 degrees Fahrenheit.

How to germinate cannabis seeds

The best germination method depends on the cultivator’s choice. Here are some of the most common ways to pop your cannabis seeds.

How to germinate seeds in soil

Soil is an easy, more natural method with which to germinate your cannabis seeds. The soil protects the fragile roots from any interference, and soil is, after all, where a cannabis plant would grow in the wild.

Soil is an easy, more natural method with which to germinate your cannabis seeds because the soil protects the fragile roots from any interference. Photo by: Gina Coleman/Weedmaps

Image lightbox

First, make sure you use the correct type of soil, either gently fertilized potting soil or a seed starter with a pH level of approximately six (6). The soil contains the right acidity and enough nutrients to strengthen your young cannabis plants for the first two weeks. Be careful not to add more nutrients, or you risk overfeeding and killing your seeds.

Place the soil in a small pot and use your finger or a pencil to push a small hole in the dirt, a bit more than half an inch deep. Insert the seed into the hole and bury it with soil. From this point on, don’t touch your seed. The young plant is fragile and knows how to position itself in the soil bed.

Gently water the soil with a spray bottle and situate your pots under a fluorescent lamp. Keep seeds away from the windowsill, as the temperature is too volatile for germination. In general, you’ll want to keep the temperature in the range of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Monitor your soil every day and keep it moist. Within four to seven days, you should see tiny stems sprouting from the soil.

When the seedling stems reach two to four inches in height, it’s time to transplant your cannabis into larger pots with more room for roots to spread down and out. After you’ve done this, you’ve successfully germinated your cannabis seeds into proper, young plants.

How to germinate seeds in water

You can also germinate your seeds by placing them in water. It’s slightly faster than the soil method, but you need to adjust your environmental factors accordingly. Remember, successfully germinating seeds requires a perfect balance of ideal growing conditions. When germinating in water, seeds need only 24-48 hours to pop their stems, though cultivators can keep them soaking for up to a week as needed. Water germination is faster because the seed gets all the moisture it needs immediately, and the shell softens and cracks more easily after soaking.

To employ water germination, fill a glass with tap water and let it sit until it reaches room temperature or around 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Add two to three plant seeds per cup and allow them to sit, watching for any changes. Change the water to fresh tap water every two days, making sure it stays at room temperature.

The seeds should start sprouting in about two days, though older seeds can take up to a week to sprout. You can remove them from the water and place them in the soil at any point once they’ve sprouted. Once the roots are about five millimeters long, they need to be planted.

The downside of water germination is that once they’ve popped, you’ll need to maneuver them into their growing medium manually. This is a delicate process, as germinating seeds are extra fragile, and any harm risks the development of your plants. Make sure to place the seed roots down in the soil when you transfer to a pot.

How to germinate seeds using paper towels

The paper towel method is also a common way cultivators pop their seeds. Some even use this method with cotton pads instead of paper towels, but the necessary steps are the same.

To germinate seeds this way, lay one paper towel on top of a countertop, place a few seeds, and cover them with a second paper towel.

Lay one paper towel on top of a countertop, place a few seeds, and cover them with a second paper towel. Photo by: Gina Coleman/Weedmaps

Image lightbox

Use a spray bottle to moisten the paper towels and then store the cushioned seeds between two plates, under a face-down bowl, or gently place them in a plastic bag. Maintain a temperature of about 72 degrees Fahrenheit, keeping the paper towel wrapped seeds in the dark and away from a windowsill. In two to five days, the seeds will pop inside the paper towel sandwich and emit tiny roots, ready to plant when they reach about five millimeters in length.

Use a spray bottle to moisten the paper towels and then store the cushioned seeds between two plates, under a face-down bowl, or gently place them in a plastic bag. Photo by: Gina Coleman/Weedmaps

Image lightbox

The paper towel method also has its risk, as the fragile seedlings can be damaged during the potting process. The tiny roots can also get tangled in the paper towels, so make sure to move the seeds to potting soil before roots grow too long. Use your hands or tweezers to gently remove each seed from the paper towels and place them in a prepared growing medium.

How do you germinate seeds indoors?

Whether you’re planning an indoor cultivation or outdoor grow, it’s best to germinate your seeds indoors. It’s easier to maintain proper temperature, light exposure, and moisture inside, and you can protect your seeds from the elements. Indoor germination, whether using soil or paper towels, will ensure your cannabis seeds have the best chance for survival.

To germinate seeds indoors, use any of the methods described above. Within a few days, you’ll have popped seeds ready to transfer to a growing medium.

Do you need to germinate seeds before planting?

While many plants can be germinated in the ground, cannabis seeds are fragile enough that you should germinate them before planting.

Once your seeds have sprouted roots, they should be planted in soil, a soil-less medium, or in your hydroponic setup. Make sure not touch the root, caring for and navigating the seedling so that the roots face downward. Plant the seed about one inch deep in your growing medium, cover lightly, and allow for about a week for the seed to emerge from the soil. If the seed hasn’t poked through by day ten, it likely didn’t survive.

Posted on

Seed weeds are source of

Seed weeds are source of

Natural sources of iodine: Due to its reactivity iodine is not found in nature in Free State. Its main sources are (i) Sea weeds (ii) Chile salt power (iii) Natural brine Extraction of Iodine from sea weeds: Sea weed, lamineria contains iodine sea weed is well dried and burnt is deep pits carefully so, that iodine do not destroyed. The obtained ash is called ‘kelp’. Which contains 0.4 to 1.3c/o iodine. Kelp is dissolved in water and solution is partially crystalised when less soluble Kl and Nal remain in the mother liquor. Conc. H2SO4 is added when basic sulphides deposite at the bottom, which is filtered and removed. Now the filtrate is mixed with MnO2 and Conc. H2SO4 and heated in an iron vessel. Iodine vapourises due to the reaction and is collected in Aludel. Iodine is now collected as solid after condensation.

Iodine obtained by this method contains Cl2 and Br2 as impurities. It is treated with Kl to obtain pure iodine.

Potential of marine algae (sea weeds) as source of medicinally important compounds

Scientific research has always been concerned with aspects of human health. There are several systems of medicines besides the globally accepted allopathy, which are based on compounds originating from natural products. Recent research has been centred around validation of the traditional knowledge on medicinal products. The traditional systems in India, China and forklore medicines in other parts of the world have indicated the potential of natural products consist of various chemical compounds that could be used as drugs. The search for drugs against five major dreadful diseases namely, cancer, AIDS, heart disease, diabetes and pulmonary disorders that attack the present day human from natural products has been in progress for some time. Microbes, plants and animals are the sources of natural products. In the past five decades, the research on bioactive chemicals from marine algae has been incited and several compounds with biological activity were isolated from algae. Generally, these are secondary metabolites produced for chemical defence against the biotic pressure of predators, consumers and epibionts. These potential drugs are now attracting considerable attention from the pharmaceutical industries due to the necessity of identifying substances that could be utilized for novel therapeutic purposes. Several compounds such as alginate, carrageenans, sulphated and halogenated polysachcharise and other derivatives have been shown to provide drugs that could be antiviral, anticancer and antimicrobial. The present account is on the potential of marine macro-algae for medicinally important products.


Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)


Abidov , M , Ramazanov , Z , Seifulla , R and Grachev , S ( 2010 ) The effects of Xanthigen in the weight management of obesepremenopausal Women with non-alcoholic fatty liver disease and normal liver fat . Diabetes, Obesity and Metabolism 12 : 72 – 81 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Abu-El-Wafa , GSE , Shaaban , KA , Elnaggar , MEE and Shabaan , M ( 2011 ) Bioactive constituents and biochemical composition of Egyptian Brown alga Sargassum subrepinandum (Forsk) . Revista latinoamericana de química 39 : 1 – 14 .Google Scholar

Alang , G , Kaur , R , Singh , A , Budlakoti , P , Singh , A and Singla , P ( 2009 ) Antimicrobial activity of Ulva lactuca extracts and its fractions . Pharmacology (online) 3 : 107 – 117 .Google Scholar

Ali , AI , Taki , KK , Boudabban , A and El Bour , M ( 2010 ) Seasonal variation of antibacterial activity of the brown alga Padina pavonica (L.) Thivy collected from northern coast of Tunisia . Bulletin de I’Institut National des Sciences et Technologies de la Mer 37 : 111 – 116 .Google Scholar

Al-Saif , SSA , Abdel-Raouf , N , El-Wazanani , HA and Aref , IA ( 2014 ) Antibacterial substances from marine algae isolated from Jeddah coast of Red sea, Saudi Arabia . Saudi Journal of Biological Sciences 21 : 57 – 64 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Anantharaman , P , Balasubramanian , T and Thirumaran , G ( 2006 ) Potential value of seaweeds. In: National Training Workshop on Seaweed Farming and Processing for Food, Kilakarai, pp. 91 – 104 .Google Scholar

Ann-Dorit , S , Safafar , H , Pedersen , A , Marinho , G and Holdt , S ( 2016 ) Seasonal variations of antioxidants in the brown seaweed Saccharina latissima. In: Proceedings of 22nd International Seaweed Symposium, p. 84 .Google Scholar

Ann-Sophie , B , Bedoux , G and Bourgougnon , N ( 2016 ) Antiviral compounds from red seaweeds by EAE using response surface methodology. In: Proceedings of 22nd International Seaweed Symposium, p. 122 .Google Scholar

Arunkumar , K , Sivakumar , SR and Shanthi , N ( 2013 ) Antibacterial potential of gulf of mannar seaweeds extracts against two plant pathogenic bacteria Xanthomonas axonopodis pv. citri (Hasse) Vauterin et al., and Xanthomonas campestris pv malvacearum (Smith, 1901) Dye 1978b . IJAPBC 2 : 25 – 31 .Google Scholar

Awad , NE , Motaune , HM , Setum , MA and Motiobe , AA ( 2009 ) Antitumorogenic polysaccharides isolated fromthe brown algae Padina pavonica Gaille. and Hydoclathrus clathratus (Agardh) Horne . Medicinal and Aromatic Plant Science and Biotechnology 3 : 6 – 11 .Google Scholar

C´aceres , PJ , Carlucci , MJ , Damonte , EB , Matsuhiro , B and Z’ueniga , EA ( 2000 ) Carrageenans from Chilean samples of Stenogramme interrupta (Phyllophoraceae), structural analysis and biological activity . Phytochemistry 53 : 81 – 86 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Carlucci , MJ , Pujol , CA , Ciancia , M , Noseda , MD , Matulewicz , MC , Damonte , EB and Cerezo , AS ( 1997 ) Antiherpetic and anticoagulant properties of carrageenans from the red seaweed Gigartina skottsbergii and their cyclized derivatives: correlation between structure and biological activity . International Journal of Biological Macromolecules 20 : 97 – 105 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Carlucci , MJ , Ciancia , M , Matulewicz , MC , Cerezo , AS and Damonte , EB ( 1999a ) Antiherpetic activity and mode of action of natural carrageenans of diverse structural types . Antiviral Research 43 : 93 – 102 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Carlucci , MJ , Scolaro , LA and Damonte , EB ( 1999b ) Inhibitory action of natural carrageenans on simplex virus infection of mouse astrocytes . Chemotheraphy 45 : 429 – 436 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Chan , PT , Matunjun , P , Md Yasir , S and Tan , TS ( 2014 ) Antioxident and hypolipidaemic properties of red seaweed Gracilaria changii . Journal of Applied Phycology 26 : 987 – 997 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Chapman , VJ ( 1979 ) Seaweeds in pharmaceuticals and medicine: a review . In: Hoppe , HA , Levring , T and Tanaka , Y (eds) Marine Algae in Pharmaceutical Science . Berlin : Walter de Gruyter , pp. 139 – 147 .Google Scholar

Chevolot , L , Foucault , A , Chaubet , F , Kervarec , N , Sinquin , C , Fisher , AM and Boisson-Vidal , C ( 1999 ) Further data on the structure of brown seaweed fucans: relationships with anticoagulant activity . Carbohydrate Research 319 : 154 – 165 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Cho , EJ , Rhee , SH and Park , KY ( 1997 ) Antimutagenic and cancer cell growth inhibitory effects of seaweeds . Preventive Nutrition and Food Science 2 : 348 – 353 .Google Scholar

Cox , S , Abu-Ghannam , N and Gupta , S ( 2010 ) An assessment of the antioxidant and antimicrobial activity of six species of edible Irish seaweeds . International Food Research Journal 17 : 205 – 220 .Google Scholar

Damonte , EB , Neyts , J , Pujol , CA , Snoeck , R , Andrei , G , Ikeda , S , Witvrouw , M , Reymen , D , Haines , H , Matulewicz , MC , Cerezo , A , Coto , CE and De Clercq , E ( 1994 ) Antiviral activity of a sulphated polysaccharide from the red seaweed Nothogenia fastigiata . Biochemical Pharmacology 47 : 2187 – 2192 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Damonte , EB , Matulewicz , MC and Cerezo , AS ( 2004 ) Sulfated seaweed polysaccharides as antiviral agents . Current Medicinal Chemistry 11 : 2399 – 2419 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

De Clercq , E ( 1996 ) Non-nucleoside reverse transcriptase inhibitors (NNRTIs) for the treatment of human immunodeficiency virus type 1 (HIV-1) infections: strategies to overcome drug resistance development . Medicinal Research Reviews 16 : 125 – 157 .3.0.CO;2-2>CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Demirel , Z , Yilmaz-Koz , FF , Karabay-Yavasoglu , UN , Ozdemir , G and Sukatar , A ( 2009 ) Antimicrobial and antioxidant activity of brown algae from the Aegean Sea . Journal of the Serbian Chemical Society 74 : 619 – 628 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

de Nys , R , Wright , AD , König , GM and Sticher , O ( 1993 ) New halogenated furanones from the marine alga Delisea pulchra (cf. fimbriata) . Tetrahedron 49 : 11213 – 11220 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

de Souse , AP , Torres , MR , Pesra , C , Morae , MO , Filo , FDR , Alue , APN and Costa-Lotrofo , LV ( 2007 ) In vitro growth inhibition saecoma 180 tumor by alginate from brown seaweed Sargassum vulgare . Carbohydrate Polymers 69 : 7 – 13 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Ditte Hermund , B , Jacobsen , C and Nielsen , KF ( 2016 ) Extraction, Characterization and Application of Antioxidants from the Nordic Brown Alga Fucus vesiculosus. Kgs . Lyngby : National Food Institute, Technical University of Denmark .Google Scholar

Elnabris , KJ , Elmanama , AA and Chihadeh , WN ( 2013 ) Antibacterial activity of four marine seaweeds collected from the coast of Gaza Strip, Palestine . Mesopotamian Journal of Marine Science 28 : 81 – 92 .Google Scholar

El Sayed , KA , Bartyzel , P , Shen , X , Perry , TL , Zjawiony , JK and Hamann , MT ( 2000 ) Marine natural products as antituberculosis agents . Tetrahedron 56 : 949 – 953 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Fenical , W ( 1975 ) Halogenation in the Rhodophyta. A review . Journal of Phycology 11 : 245 – 259 .Google Scholar

Ferreres , F , Lopes , G , Gil-Izquierdo , A , Andrade , PB , Sousa , C , Mouga , T and Valentão , P ( 2012 ) Phlorotannin extracts from fucales characterized by HPLC-DAD-ESI-MSn: approaches to hyaluronidase inhibitory capacity and antioxidant properties . Marine Drugs 10 : 2766 – 2781 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Fertah , M , Belfkira , A , Taourirte , M and Brouillette , F ( 2014 ) Extraction and characterization of sodium alginate from Moroccan Laminaria digitata brown seaweed . Arabian Journal of Chemistry . CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Funahashi , H , Imai , T , Mase , T , Sekiya , M , Yokoi , K , Hayashi , H , Shibata , A , Hayashi , T , Nishikawa , M , Suda , N , Hibi , Y , Mizuno , Y , Tsukamura , K , Hayakawa , A and Tanuma , S ( 2001 ) Seaweed prevents breast cancer . Japanese Journal of Cancer Research 92 : 483 – 487 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Glombitza , KW ( 1979 ) Antibiotics from algae . In: Hoppe , HA , Levring , T and Tanaka , Y (eds) Marine Algae in Pharmaceutical Science . Berlin : Waiter de Gruyter , pp. 303 – 342 .Google Scholar

Haefner , B ( 2003 ) Drugs from the deep: marine natural products as drug candidates . Drug Discovery Today 8 : 536 – 544 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Hamann , MT and Scheuer , PJ ( 1993 ) Kahalalide F: a bioactive depsipeptide from the sacoglossan mollusk Elysia rufescens and the green alga Bryopsis sp . Journal of the American Chemical Society 115 : 5825 – 5826 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Hashimoto , Y ( 1979 ) Marine Toxins and Other Bioactive Marine Metabolites . Tokyo : Japan Scientific Societies Press , 369 pp.Google Scholar

Hiren , K , Siltana , V , Haque , SE and Athou , M ( 2016 ) Hepatoprotective potential of three Sargassum species from Kuncha coast against carbon tetrachloride and acetaminophen intoxication . Journal of Coastal Life Medicine 4 : 10 – 13 .Google Scholar

Høiby , N ( 2002 ) Understanding bacterial biofilms in patients with cystic fibrosis: current and innovative approaches to potential therapies . Journal of Cystic Fibrosis 1 : 249 – 254 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Homsey , IS and Hide , D ( 1974 ) The production of antimicrobial compounds by British marine algae. I. Antibiotic-producing marine algae . British Phycological Journal 9 : 353–336.Google Scholar

Hoppe , HA ( 1979 ) Marine algae and their products and constituents in pharmacy . In: Hoppe , HA , Levring , T and Tanaka , Y (eds) Marine Algae in Pharmaceutical Science . Berlin : Walter de Gruyter , pp. 25 – 119 .Google Scholar

Impellizzeri , G , Mangiafico , S , Oriente , G , Piattelli , M , Sciuto , S , Fattorusso , E , Magno , S , Santacroce , C and Sica , D ( 1975 ) Amino acids and low-molecular-weight carbohydrates of some marine red algae . Phytochemistry 14 : 1549 – 1557 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Indu , H and Srinivasan , R ( 2013 ) In vitro antimicrobial activity of selected seaweeds from South east coast of India . International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Science 5 : 474 – 484 .Google Scholar

Jiao , G , Yu , G , Zhang , J and Ewart , HS ( 2011 ) Chemical structures and bioactivities of sulfated polysaccharides from marine algae . Marine Drugs 9 : 196 – 223 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Jiao , L , Li , X , Li , T , Jiang , P , Zhang , L , Wu , M and Zhiang , L ( 2009 ) Characterization and anti-tumor activity of alkali extracted polysaccharides from Enteromorpha intestinalis . International Immunopharmacology 9 : 324 – 329 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Jung , HA , Hyun , SK , Kim , HR and Choi , JS ( 2006 ) Angiotensin-converting enzyme I inhibitory activity of phlorotannins from Ecklonia stolonifera . Fisheries Science 72 : 1292 – 1299 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Kaliaperumal , N , Kalimuthu , S and Ramalingam , JR ( 2004 ) Recent Scenario of seaweed exploitation and Industry in India . Seaweed Research and Utilisation . 26 : 47 – 54 .Google Scholar

Kang , SI , Jin , YJ , Ko , HC , Choi , SY , Hwang , JH , Whang , I , Kim , MH , Shin , HS , Jeong , HB and Kim , SJ ( 2008 ) Petalonia improves glucose homeostasis in streptozotocin-induced diabetic mice . Biochemical and biophysical research communications . 373 : 265 – 269 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Karthika Devi , G , Manivannan , K , Thirumaran , G , Rajathi , FA and Anantharaman , P ( 2011 ) In vitro antioxidant activities of selected seaweeds from South east coast of India . Journal of Tropical Medicine 4 : 205 – 211 .Google Scholar

Kashiwagi , M , Mynderse , JS , Moore , RE and Norton , TR ( 1980 ) Antineoplastic evaluation of Pacific Basin marine algae . Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 69 : 734 – 738 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Kayalvizhi , K , Vasuki , S , Anantharaman , P and Kathiresan , K ( 2012 ) Antimicrobial activity of seaweeds from the Gulf of Mannar . International Journal of Pharmaceutical Applications 3 : 306 – 314 .Google Scholar

Kim , KN , Ham , YM , Moon , JY , Kim , MJ , Kim , DS and Lee , WJ ( 2009 ) In vitro cytotoxic activity of Sargassum thunbergii and Dictyopteris divaricata (Jeju seaweeds) on the HL-60 tumour cell line . International Journal of Pharmacology 5 : 298 – 306 .Google Scholar

Kim , KY , Nam , KA , Kurihara , H and Kim , SM ( 2008 ) Potent α-glucosidase inhibitors purified from the red alga Grateloupia elliptica . Phytochemistry 69 : 2820 – 2825 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Kjelleberg , S and Steinberg , P ( 2001 ) Surface warfare in the sea . Microbiology Today 28 : 134 – 135 .Google Scholar

Klarzynski , O , Plesse , B , Joubert , JM , Yvin , JC , Kopp , M , Kloareg , B and Fritig , B ( 2000 ) Linear β−1, 3 glucans are elicitors of defense responses in tobacco . Plant Physiology 124 : 1027 – 1038 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Kolender , AA , Matulewicz , MC and Cerezo , AS ( 1995 ) Structural analysis of antiviral sulfated α-D-(1→ 3)-linked mannans . Carbohydrate Research 273 : 179 – 185 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Lau , TY , Vitta , DF , Cheo , CSY and Yong , WTL ( 2009 ) Antiproliferative potential of extracts from Kappaphycus seaweeds on HeLa cancer cell lines . Sanis Malaysiana 43 : 1895 – 1900 .Google Scholar

Lee , HJ , Kim , HC , Vitek , L and Nam , MC ( 2010 ) Algae consumption and risk of type 2 diabetes, Korean National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey in 2005 . Journal of Nutrition Science and Vitaminology 56 : 13 – 18 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Liu , F , Liu , J , Gu , J , Zhang , L , Shen , W , Guo , T , Liu , C and He , P ( 2007 ) Ex-vivo antioxidation activity of polysaccharides from red alga Porphyra yezoensis . Research Journal of Pharmocology 34 : 253 – 261 .Google Scholar

Lloyd , LL , Kennedy , JF , Methacamm , P , Petera , M and Kail , CJ ( 1998 ) Carbohydrate polymers as wound management aids . Carbohydrate Polymers 37 : 315 – 323 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Malhotra , R , Ward , M , Bright , H , Priest , R , Foster , MR and Hurle , M ( 2003 ) Isolation and characterisation of potential respiratory Syncytial virus receptor(s) on epithelial cells . Microbes and Infection 5 : 12 – 133 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Manabe , Y , Manabe , A and Sakaguchi , M ( 1982 ) Nelaton catheter in non-gravidas for a safe and gradual cervical softening and dilation: a possible involvement of prostaglandins . Contraception 25 : 211 – 218 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Manivannan , K , Karthikaidevi , G , Anantharaman , P and Balasubramanian , T ( 2011 ) Antimicrobial potential of selected brown seaweeds from Vedalai coastal waters, Gulf of Mannar . Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine 1 : 114 – 120 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Maruyama , H , Tamauchi , H , Hashimoto , M and Nakano , T ( 2003 ) Antitumor activity and immune response of Mekabu fucoidan extracted from Sporophyll of Undaria pinnatifida . In Vivo 17 : 245 – 249 .Google ScholarPubMed

Matanjum , P ( 2016 ) Nutrient composition, Antixoidant and Antiobesity properties of Sabah Red and Brown Seaweeds. In: Proceedings of 22nd International Seaweed Symposium, p. 90 .Google Scholar

Matou , S , Helley , D , Chabut , D , Bros , A and Fischer , AM ( 2002 ) Effect of fucoidan on fibroblast growth factor-2-induced angiogenesis in vitro . Thrombosis Research 106 : 213 – 221 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Mazumder , S , Ghosal , PK , Pujol , CA , Carlucci , MJ , Damont , EB and Ray , B ( 2002 ) Isolation, chemical investigation and antiviral activityof polysaccharides from Gracilaria corticata (Gracilariaceae Rhodophyta) . International Journal of Biological Macromolecules 31 : 87 – 95 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Michanek , G ( 1979 ) Seaweed resources for pharmaceutical uses . In: Hoppe , HA , Levring , T and Tanaka , Y (eds) Marine Algae in Pharmaceutical Science . Berlin : Walter de Gruyter , pp. 203 – 235 .Google Scholar

Michel , G , Schulz , A , Dobringer , J , Vasquez , J , Gentile , L and Neubauer , J ( 2016 ) Bioactive surfaces for the cultivation of human stem cells on seaweed derived alginates. In: Proceedings of 22nd International Seaweed Symposium, p. 53 .Google Scholar

Mohamed , S , Haslim , SN and Rahman , HA ( 2012 ) Seaweeds: a sustainable functional food for complementary and alternative therapy . Trends in Food Science & Technology 23 : 83 – 96 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Nakashima , H , Kido , Y , Kobayashi , N , Motoki , Y , Neushul , M and Yamamoto , N ( 1987a ) Antiretroviral activity in a marine red alga; reverse transcriptase inhibition by an aqueous extract of Schizymenia pacifica . Journal of Cancer Research And Clinical Oncology 113 : 413 – 416 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Nakashima , H , Kido , Y , Kobayashi , N , Motoki , Y , Neushul , M and Yamamoto , N ( 1987b ) Purification and characterization of an avian myeloblastosis and human immunodeficiency virus reverse transcriptase inhibitor, sulfated polysaccharides extracted from sea algae. Antimicrob . Agents Chemotheraphy 31 : 1524 – 1528 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Nanovar , F , Mohammed , S , Fard , SG , Behrvam , J , Mustafa , MN , Alithean , NBM and Oltman , F ( 2012 ) Polyphenol rich seaweed (Euechema cottonnii from north Coast of Borneo . Food Chemistry 130 : 376 – 382 .Google Scholar

Nishino , T , Takabe , Y and Nagumo , T ( 1994 ) Isolation and partial characterization of a novel β-D-galactan sulfate from the brown seaweed Laminaria angustata var. longissima . Carbohydrate Polymers 23 : 165 – 173 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Nisiwaza , K ( 1979 ) Pharmaceutical studies on marine algae in Japan . In: Hoppe , HA , Levring , T and Tanaka , Y (eds) Marine Algae in Pharmaceutical Science . Berlin : Walter de Gruyter , pp. 243 – 264 .Google Scholar

Oza , RM and Zaidi , SH ( 2001 ) A Revised Check List of Indian Marine Algae . Bhavnagar : CSMCRI , p. 296 .Google Scholar

Palermo , JA , Flower , BP and Seldes , AM ( 1992 ) Chondriamides A and B, new indolic metabolites from the red alga Chondria sp . Tetrahedron Letters 33 : 3097 – 3100 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Rajauria , G , Jaiswal , AK , Abu-Gannam , N and Gupta , S ( 2012 ) Antimicrobial, antioxidant and free radical-scavenging capacity of brown seaweed Himanthalia elongata from Western Coast of Ireland . Journal of Food Biochemistry 37 : 322 – 335 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Rodrigues , JAG , Linada Queinz , JN , Besse , EF , Carve , CO , Amorin , RC and Zen , NMB ( 2011 ) Anti-coagulant activity of sulphated polysachcharide fractions from an aqueous extract obtained from the red seaweed Halymenia florensis (Clemete) C. Agardh . Maringa 33 : 371 – 378 .Google Scholar

Sato , M , Nakano , T , Takeuchi , M , Kanno , N , Nagahisa , E and Sato , Y ( 1996 ) Distribution of neuroexcitatory amino acids in marine algae . Phytochemistry 42 : 1595 – 1597 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Schimmer , M and Schimmer , D ( 1955 ) The Role of Algae and Plankton in Medicine . New York : Grune and Stratton , 85 pp.Google Scholar

Schimmer , M and Schimmer , D ( 1968 ) Medical aspects of phycology . In: Jackson , DF (ed.) Algae, Man and the Environment . Syracuse, New York : Syracuse University Press , pp. 279 – 358 .Google Scholar

Shanmughapriya , S , Manilal , A , Sujith , S , Selvin , J , Kiran , GS and Natarajaseenivasan , K ( 2008 ) Antimicrobial activity of seaweeds extracts against multiresistant pathogens . Annals of Microbiology 58 : 535 – 541 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Smit , AJ ( 2004 ) Medicinal and pharmaceutical uses of seaweed natural products: a review . Journal of Applied Phycology 16 : 245 – 262 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Stein , J and Borden , CA ( 1984 ) Causative and beneficial algae in human disease conditions: a review . Phycologia 23 : 485 – 501 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Stephan , B , Eric , D , Sophie , FM , Christian , B and Yu , G ( 2010 ) Carrageenan from Solieria chordalia (Gigartinales): structural analysis and immunological activities of low molecular weight fractions, Carbohydrate . Polymers 81 : 448 – 460 .Google Scholar

Strauss , JH , Wilson , M , Caldwell , D , Otterson , W and Martina , AO ( 1979 ) Laminaria use in mid trimester abortions induced by intra-amniotic prostaglandin F-2-alpha with urea and intra-venous oxytocin . American Journal of Obstetrics & Gynecology 134 : 260 – 264 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Subba Rao , PV and Mantri , VA ( 2006 ) Indian seaweed resources and sustainable utilization: scenario at the dawn of a new century . Current Science 91 : 64 – 174 .Google Scholar

Vadiapudi , V and Chandrasekhara Naidu , K ( 2010 ) Antioxidant activities of marine algae . J. Pharmacy Res . 3 : 329 – 331 .Google Scholar

Vetrika , V and Yuin , J ( 2004 ) Effects of B-1,3-glucan reactions . International Immunopharmacology 14 : 721 – 730 .Google Scholar

Vijayabaskar , P and Shyamala , V ( 2012 ) Antioxidant property of seaweed polyphenol from Turbinaria ornata (Turner) J. Agardh 1848 . Journal of Tropical Biomedicine 2 : 2590 – 2598 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Wang , Y , Xu , Z , Bach , SJ and McAllister , TA ( 2008 ) Effects of phlorotannins from Ascophyllum nodosum (brown seaweed) on in vitro ruminal digestion of mixed forage or barley grain . Animal Feed Science and Technology 145 : 375 – 395 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Witvrouw , M , Este , JA , Mateu , MQ , Reymen , D , Andrei , G , Snoeck , R , Ikeda , S , Pauwels , R , Bianchini , NV , Desmyter , J and de Clercq , E ( 1994 ) Activity of a sulfated polysaccharide extracted from the red seaweed Aghardhiella tenera against human immunodeficiency virus and other enveloped viruses . Antiviral Chemistry and Chemotheraphy 5 : 297 – 303 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Xue , C , Yu , G , Hirata , T , Terao , J and Lin , H ( 1998 ) Antioxidative activities of several marine polysaccharides evaluated in a phosphatidylcholine-liposomal suspension and organic solvents . Bioscience, biotechnology, and biochemistry 62 : 206 – 209 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Yamamoto , K , Nagumo , T , Yagi , K , Tominaga , H and Aoki , M ( 1974 ) Antitumor effect of seaweeds. 1. Antitumor effect of extracts from Sargassum and Laminaria . Japanese Journal of Experimental Medicine 44 : 543 – 546 .Google Scholar

Ye , B , Yamamoto , K and Tyson , JE ( 1982 ) Functional and biochemical aspects of Laminaria use in first-trimester pregnancy termination . American Journal of Obstet. Gynecology 142 : 36 – 39 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Ye , H , Wong , K , Zher , C , Liu , J and Zeng , X ( 2008 ) Antioxidant polysaccharides from Sargassum pallidum . Food Chemistry 111 : 428 – 432 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Yiming , F , Kopplin , G and Varum , K ( 2016 ) Characterization of alginate gels with chitooligosaccharides of varying composition as cross linkers. In: Proceedings of 22nd International Seaweed Symposium, p. 63 .Google Scholar

Yuan , H , Song , J , Li , X , Li , N and Dai , J ( 2006 ) Immunomodulation and antitumor activity of K-carrageenan oligosaccharides . Cancer Letters 243 : 228 – 234 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Zhu , W , Ooi , VE , Chan , PK and Ang , PO Jr ( 2003 ) Isolation and characterization of a sulfated polysaccharide from the brown alga Sargassum patens and determination of its anti-herpes activity . Biochemistry and Cell Biology 81 : 25 – 33 .CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed

Zubia , M , Fabne , M , Kerjean , V and Deslandes , E ( 2009 ) Antioxidant and cytotoxic activities of some red algae (Rhodophyta) from Brittany Coast (France) . Botanica Marina 52 : 269 – 277 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Posted on

Ambulance seeds

303 Seeds Ambulance

Potency, heavy yields and trichome blankets – this is what you can get out of this Ambulance. This feminized Hybrid of (Sensi Star x Sour Diesel) x (Cannatonic x Afghan/Skunk) is short and has a bushy structure, these characteristics are what makes her perfect for gardeners where space may be an issue. She finishes in just over 7 weeks and she is perfect for medical patients due to her high CBD level.

Genetics: (Sensi Star x Sour Diesel) x (Cannatonic x Afghan/Skunk)
Phenotype: Sativa / Indica Hybrid
Location: Indoor / Outdoor

Please Note: This content is for informational and educational use only. The Attitude Seed bank sells all seeds strictly for souvenir purposes or for storage and preservation of genetics in case the laws may change. We do not condone or encourage the germination of cannabis seeds and we will refuse a sale to anyone who leads us to believe they intend to use our products in an unlawful way.

Ambulance seeds

Buy Ambulance seeds online with Seedsbay. Here you will find detailed information on the Ambulance cannabis seeds, from specifications and reviews to flavors and effects. We have listed every seedshop where you can buy Ambulance seeds along their offers. Compare prices on Ambulance seeds and get the best deal for yourself!

Unfortunatly, there are no offers available to buy Ambulance seeds. Do you know a seedshop selling Ambulance seeds? Send us a message and we will add the offer as soon as possible.

Unfortunatly, there are no offers available to buy Ambulance seeds. Do you know a seedshop selling Ambulance seeds? Send us a message and we will add the offer as soon as possible.

Ambulance specifications

Read the Ambulance seed specifications in the table below. The values may vary between the different seedbanks where you can buy Ambulance seeds.

Variety 60% Indica and 40% Sativa
THC level 18%
CBD level 9.5%
Difficulty Advanced
Flowering Time 63 days

About Ambulance seeds

This Ambulance strain has a variety of both sativa as indica with THC levels of 18 percent. The CBD level is 9.5 percent average. Ambulance is known by the acronym of Mbc consisting of 60% indica and 40% sativa. Ambulance will grow into a beautiful cannabis plant with nice buds. Germinate the Ambulance seeds and grow it into a nice cannbis plant, with an average floweringtime of 63 days.

Buying Ambulance seeds is not possible at the moment, we will keep you informed as soon as the Ambulance seeds are available.


Here you can find all info about Ambulance from 303 Seeds. If you are searching for information about Ambulance from 303 Seeds, check out our Basic Infos, Gallery, Degustation, Strain Reviews, Medicinal Properties, Lineage / Genealogy, Hybrids / Crossbreeds or User Comments for this cannabis variety here at this page and follow the links to get even more information. If you have any personal experiences with growing or consuming this cannabis variety, please use the upload links to add them to the database!

Basic / Breeders Info

Ambulance is an indica/sativa variety from 303 Seeds and can be cultivated indoors (where the plants will need a flowering time of ±63 days ) and outdoors . 303 Seeds’ Ambulance is a CBD Strain with more THC than CBD and is/was only available as feminized seeds.

303 Seeds’ Ambulance Description

Looking for medically relevant cannabinoid content, potency, heavy trichome blankets and productive yields? Call the Ambulance! We’ve worked our Bio-Diesel #2 cut with the CBD rich Z7 from the CBD Crew to bring you feminized CBD rich plants with high levels of THC that most experienced cannabis patients require.

The Bio-Diesel #2 mom tests over 22% THC with CBD levels around 1%. She finishes faster and has a sweeter terpene profile than her sister, #1. She also has a bushier structure and stays short enough to work well in tents and small closets. The Z7 cutting used for this pollination has tested as high as 15% CBD with THC levels up to 10%. She stretches like a sativa, but finishes quickly in just over 7 weeks. With incredible trichome production, berry terpene profile, and medically relevant CBD levels the Z7 is a patient favorite in Colorado.

Cannabinoid Content:
THC: 15-22%
CBD: 4-15%

Note: Cannabinoid content varies and can change significantly based on plant health, grow techniques, nutrients, flowering time, etc. Our testing is based on organic soil grown samples where the plant was flowered to maturity.

Mother: Bio-Diesel #2 – (Koots)
Father: Z7 – (CBD Crew)
Genetics: (Sensi Star x Sour Diesel) x (Cannatonic x Afghan/Skunk)
Grow Difficulty: Moderate – Some experience recommended
Phenotype: Sativa/Indica Hybrid
Indoor Flowering Time: 8-10 Weeks

Posted on

Long weeds in lawn with seeds at top


Crabgrass is a warm season annual weed that invades lawns that are thin, weak and undernourished. It germinates from seed in late spring once soil temperatures have reached 50 F (10C). During the summer it develops into a ground-hugging weed that spreads over the surrounding grass. In late summer it produces hundreds of seeds that will sprout the following year. Crabgrass seeds can remain in the soil for many years and sprout when the soil is disturbed.

Organic Solution:
The best defense is a good offense. Regular overseeding of your lawn will encourage a dense root system which will not provide space for Crabgrass to grow. Crabgrass is very rare in thick, healthy lawns that are mowed to a height of 3 inches (7.6 cm) this helps to keep the soil cooler thus inhibiting germination of Crabgrass seeds.
If you have had Crabgrass in the past, in early spring give the area a hard raking to dethatch it and remove the debris. You can then apply corn meal gluten, which will act as an organic pre-emeregent herbicide. Please note that since corn meal gluten is a pre-emergent, you cannot overseed your lawn until the fall if you use corn meal gluten in spring. The best way to organically control Crabgrass is to ensure that you keep your lawn mowed in late summer when the Crabgrass is putting up its purple seed stalks. This will prevent it from making seed for the future.

Non-organic Solution: Often, by the time Crabgrass is noticeable it is too late to treat, however there are chemical crabgrass treatments. Contact your local garden centre or hardware store for options in your area.


Dandelions are the bane of many peoples lawns. Thriving in thin, sparse turf, dandelion seeds float through the air looking for the slightest opening in the lawn to propagate. Meanwhile, below ground, they develop a taproot up to 10″ long. This taproot is thick but brittle and easily fractures and any piece of the taproot that remains in the ground will re-grow.

Organic Solution:
Regular overseeding of your lawn will encourage a dense root system which will not provide space for Dandelions to grow. Leave grass clippings on the lawn as they act as mulch helping to prevent Dandelion seeds from germinating. That said, if you do have Dandelions there are very few organic options. If there are only a few of them, you can dig them out by hand, try to get as much of the root as possible. There is also a biological agent called “Sarritor” which is a fungus that selectively attacks dandelions and some other broad leafed weeds while not harming grass. Check with your local garden centre or hardware store to see if they stock it. Another alternative is to pour boiling water on Dandelions as boiling water kills any and all plants. If you use boiling water you will need to re-seed the affected areas.

Non-organic Solution: If you are using a broadleafed herbicide, use one where the active ingredient is 2-4-D. The ideal time to use herbicides on Dandelions is in early fall when the leaves are transferring nutrients down to the roots. Herbicide applied in early fall will be absorbed by the leaves and passed on down to the roots.


Native to Europe, Quackgrass is easy to identify. It produces long, wide-leafed grass and the grass blades have a rough almost burr-like feel to them. The thick, white roots form deep, dense mats and these roots tend to break easily when pulled leaving pieces in the soil after the grass has been removed. Any pieces left in the ground will quickly re-grow into new plants.

Organic Solution:
Again, the best defense is a good offense. Regular overseeding of your lawn will encourage a dense root system which will not provide space for Quackgrass to grow. Unfortunately, there are no organic products that are effective at eradicating Quackgrass. If the area affected is small, digging it up is a good option but be sure to get all of the roots. Frequent mowing is also an effective way to control this as mowing prevents Quackgrass from making seeds for the future. Be sure to keep the mowers blades set to a height of 3 inches. Another option to prevent Quackgrass from germinating is to apply Corn Meal Gluten in early spring as this acts as a pre-emergent herbicide. Please note that since corn meal gluten is a pre-emergent, you cannot overseed your lawn until the fall if you use corn meal gluten in spring. A further alternative is to pour boiling water on Quackgrass as boiling water kills any and all plants. If you use boiling water you will need to re-seed the affected areas.

Non-organic Solution: Spot spay in early spring or early fall with a non-selective herbicide containing glysophate (Round Up). As this also kills turf, you will need re-seed the areas you have sprayed.

Nut Sedge

Also known as Nut Grass, this wide-bladed bright green sedge grows at warp speed. Each grass blade has a thick mid-vein and a waxy coating. It has a shallow root system that produce many nut-like tubers which are underground food storage for the plant. Each tuber has up to seven viable buds and each one can grow and produce new plants. Each new plant also produces rhizomes that create new plants.

Organic Solution:
The most thorough way to rid your lawn of nut grass is by removing the entire plant, roots and all by digging it out by hand. Or you can coat the grass in sugar as an organic alternative.

Removal by Hand
Insert a gardening trowel directly next to the nut grass. Dig down as far as you can go. Nutsedge root systems can extend as deep down as 12 to 18 inches (30 to 46 cm) below the surface.

Gently pry the plant, roots and all, out of the ground. Doing this gently is vital to reduce the number of roots that break off, as well as the number of pieces those roots break into. Dig out any stray roots. If any roots remain, there is still some chance that the nutsedge can return.

Put the weeds into a garbage bag, along with the soil you dug out simultaneously. Dispose of the weeds in your trash. Do not throw them into a pile or into a compost heap, since you may end up spreading them into another area of your lawn by doing so.

Using Sugar

This method is most effective at the start of the growing season, when nutsedge is just barely beginning to germinate and sprout. Start by watering the lawn. You do not need to soak it, but the lawn should be evenly moist down to the soil.

Next sift sugar over you’re the lawn. Walk up and down the lawn in straight lines and at a steady pace. Pour the sugar through a sifter as you walk, continually turning the handle of the sifter. Make sure that the sugar falls on the grass in even amounts. This is no mere folk remedy. Sugar actually “eats” the nutsedge while also providing nourishing microbes that have a positive effect on your lawn.

Water the lawn once more, don’t saturate the grass, since that would wash the sugar away. Spray the lawn with a light mist, providing just enough water to re-moisten the blades of grass and coax the sugar down into the soil and the roots of the lawn.

Repeat this procedure at least twice more throughout the spring. The nutsedge may not die off completely after the first treatment but after a few applications of sugar all of it should be dead.

Non-organic Solution: Use herbicide before the nutsedge develops five true leaves. Leafy nutsedge has too many obstacles, preventing herbicides from sliding down to the “nuts” and the root. Herbicides work best early in the season, while nutsedge is still young and has minimal leaves.

Select an appropriate herbicide. Products that contain MSMA or products with a chemical called bentazon work best. Nutsedge is a common enough problem, so herbicides that work against the weed will be labeled as ” nutsedge or nut grass killers.”

Allow your lawn to grow for a few days prior to application. Herbicides works best when the nutsedge is growing vigorously and may not be as effective if applied immediately after cutting it down. Wait two or more days after your last lawn mowing before applying the chemical to the lawn.

Apply the herbicide during a dry period. Wait several days after your last watering and do not spray the herbicide if you may get rain four hours after application or if you expect heavy rains to follow in coming days. Water will wash the chemical away and it may not have the chance to do its job before that happens.

Read the instructions on the label of your herbicide bottle to determine how to apply it properly. You will usually spray diluted MSMA herbicide over your entire lawn. For instance, the instructions may tell you to mix 1.5 ounces (45 milliliters) of chemical into 5 gallons (20 liters) of water to treat 1000 square feet (92.9 square meters) of lawn.

Repeat the treatment several times during the growing season. Eco-Lawn may need four to eight applications before the nutsedge dies off completely.

Typically occurring in shady, damp acidic soils, moss spreads through spores.

Organic Solution:
The best way to effectively and permanently eradicate moss in the lawn is to physically remove the moss. Start by raking the area with a hard rake to loosen it. Then using the edge of a flat shovel, scrape away the moss and remove the debris. Next, top dress the area with compost and to seed it with Eco-Lawn seed. Eco-Lawn is far more shade tolerant than most turfs and will out-compete moss growth. If the affected area has heavy or compacted soil, it is a good idea to loosen the soil to a depth of at least 3 inches and re-grade to allow drainage before sowing Eco-Lawn. You can also make a spray consisting of 4 ounces of dish soap to one gallon of water and drench the moss with the solution. The moss will turn orange/brown in 24 hours and will dry up.

Non-organic Solution: There are a number of moss killing pesticides such as “Moss Out!” available. Contact your local garden centre or hardware store for options in your area.


Bindweed is a vining plant that snakes across the ground. It has arrow shaped leaves and white/pink flowers that look like morning glories. Bindweed can grow four feet or more in length and develops deep roots.

Organic Solution:
Vigilance and persistence are required to control Bindweed, where you see it, cut it off at the soil level. Don’t try to pull it out as it will just re-sprout from its roots. By continually cutting it off at ground level as often as you can, will prevent the Bindweed from experiencing photosynthesis and thus it will eventually starve to death. Another alternative is to pour boiling water on Bindweed as boiling water kills all plants. If you use boiling water you will need to re-seed the affected areas.

Non-organic Solution: Spot spay in early spring or early fall with a non-selective herbicide containing glysophate (Round Up). As this also kills turf, you will need to re-seed the areas you have sprayed.

White Clover

White Clover also known as Dutch Clover is a cool-season perennial that is native to Europe and Asia. Low growing, it forms creeping stems (stolons) that produce roots and shoots along its stem. Being in the legume family, it fixes nitrogen into the soil which enables it to thrive in unfertilized areas.

Organic Solution:
There are very few organic controls for White Clover in the lawn. Corn Meal Gluten applied in early spring acts as a pre-emergent herbicide which will stop new White Clover seeds from germinating. Please note that since corn meal gluten is a pre-emergent, you cannot overseed your lawn until the fall if you use corn meal gluten in spring.
If you must get rid of established clover in the lawn hand pulling is the only really effective way. Time your hand pulling to be after the lawn has received a good, long rainfall or water the lawn very deeply before trying to hand pull them. A very moist soil will make the hand pulling a lot easier.

Non-organic Solution: Any commercial broadleafed weed killer will be effective on White Clover. Contact your local garden centre or hardware store for options in your area.


This perennial weed is often found in neglected lawns. It has a vigorous creeping habit as it spreads with creeping stems that take root at intervals along its way. The leaves of Cinquefoil resemble those of wild strawberry with each leaf having five heavily toothed leaflets. It produces yellow flowers with five heart shaped petals.

Organic Solution:
If there are not too many of them, hand weeding is effective. Raking the lawn prior to mowing will also help to weaken and discourage it.

Non-organic Solution: Chemical controls will require repeated applications to totally eradicate Cinquefoil. Contact your local garden centre or hardware store for options in your area.

Black Medic

Black Medic also called Yellow Trefoil is an annual species so it only lives one year but it makes a lot of seeds that can remain viable for several years. It’s seeds germinate in the spring and are capable of establishing in drought-prone or disturbed soils. Black medic is a legume, meaning that it has the capabilities to fix its own nitrogen; thus, allowing it to out compete turf in nutrient-poor soils as well. These factors, in combination with its ability to tolerate low mowing heights, make black medic a common weed in lawns.

Organic Solution:
Black medic is not shade tolerant, therefore the development of a thick, dense turfgrass canopy helps improve competition against it. Unfortunately repeated hand pulling is really the only good option, especially before it start to make seeds. You can also try using either a vinegar based or citric acid organic herbicide.

Non-organic Solution: A broadleafed weed killer that contains a combination of 2-4-D, dicamba and MCPP/MCPA will be effective. Contact your local garden centre or hardware store for options in your area.

Creeping Charlie

Creeping Charlie is a very aggressive lawn weed that is difficult to control when established in lawns. It has low growing, creeping stems that form new plants where they root at its nodes. The creeping, spreading, invasive nature of this weed, along with its preference for shady places makes it very competitive in lawns.

Organic Solution:
Repeated physical removal of Creeping Charlie by pulling or hard raking will, over time, prevent the Creeping Charlie from experiencing photosynthesis and thus it will exhaust its stored energy supply.
Research at Iowa State University found that borax can be used to selectively control Creeping Charlie in turf. To do so, dissolve 1 ounce of borax in 2-3 gallons of water and apply the solution uniformly over each 1,000 sq. ft. area. For small infestations dissolve 5 teaspoons of borax in one quart of water, this covers 25 sq. ft. Do not re-apply borax solutions more than once a year as borax contains boron, too much of which can be toxic to your lawn.

Non-organic Solution: A broadleafed weed killer that contains a combination of 2-4-D, dicamba and MCPP/MCPA will be effective. Contact your local garden centre or hardware store for options in your area.

Broadleaf Plantain

Broadleaf plantain is a perennial weed that tolerates a wide variety of growing conditions such as, dry soil, wet soil, heavy clay soil and low mowing heights. Left undisturbed, plantain can grow as much as 12 inches across and 2 feet tall.

Organic Solution:
If there are not too many of them, hand weeding is effective. Try to remove as much of the root system as possible. You may need to moisten the soil before trying to pull it out as it does make a deep tap root. Note: you may need to repeat this throughout the summer.

Our customer service centre and technical support team is available Monday – Friday 8 am – 4 pm Eastern Time.

List of Common Weeds That Look Like Grass

You’ve been working hard on cultivating the perfectly manicured lawn, taking all the necessary steps to plant seed or sod, fertilize, and mow appropriately. Despite your best efforts, there seem to be patches of your lawn that don’t match the rest. There are some common weeds that look like grass which tend to blend in with a lawn and thus can be more difficult to identify and target when compared to the average dandelion.

In this article I’ll help you identify these grass-like weeds and offer advice for how to combat and eliminate them from your lawn.

Common Weeds That Look Like Grass

Click to jump to a specific weed that resembles grass


Also known as finger grasses, crabgrass can be an invasive type of weed that looks very much like grass.

It often sprouts in smaller patches throughout your lawn and has a distinctly coarse texture compared to the rest of your lawn. Thankfully, crabgrass is an annual plant so it only survives for the season and then dies.

That said, it spreads quickly, and because of its thick blades and lateral growth, it can quickly do permanent damage to your lawn by crowding out and smothering the grass surrounding it.

This is why it’s important to be vigilant and act right away if you see crabrass in your lawn.

The best way to get rid of crabgrass is by preventing its germination using a pre-emergent herbicide that can be commonly found in combination with fertilizer that you can spread in early spring.

Once crabgrass has germinated, the best way to get rid of it is by pulling it or using a direct herbicide.

Thankfully, crabgrass is not perennial so it is relatively easy to get rid of it with some diligence, and once you improve your lawn the canopy will be too dense for crabgrass to grow.

Wild garlic and onion

While it looks very much like a tall grass, wild onion and wild garlic are very fragrant and thus these grass-like weeds are pretty unmistakable once you get close enough to smell them.

If you finish mowing and it smells like you’ve been making pasta sauce, there’s a good chance you have some wild onion and/or wild garlic hiding in your lawn.

Wild onion and wild garlic also become noticeable as they grow faster than regular grass and quickly surpass the height of your lawn.

They grow in clumps, so if you have them, the rate of growth and growth habit make them pretty easy to identify.

For those who love garlic and onion as an addition to many dishes, this may be more of a fortuitous find (transplant them!). However, even the biggest garlic fans probably don’t want a swath of it in the middle of their lawn.

Thankfully, these weeds that resemble grass tend to only grow in early spring and late fall, becoming dormant in the summer season.

To remove them from your yard, dig them up (I recommend transferring them to a pot or herb garden) – just make sure to get bulb and all, or they’ll come back.

Herbicides will also work to kill wild garlic and onion, just make sure to check the label of the product your purchase to ensure that wild garlic and onion are included in the list of weeds it treats.


Before it matures and blooms, nutsedge can look much like a tall grass.

Unlike crabgrass, Nutsedge is a perennial weed that can be quite invasive and difficult to get under control due to its hardy root systems.

It can also be spread throughout your lawn (or from a neighbor’s lawn) both by airborne seeds as well as underground rhizomes or tubers. It will continue to come back year after year unless you get it under control.

Sort of like fight club, the first rule of Nutsedge is not to pull Nutsedge.

If you try to combat it by pulling it, you’re likely to leave behind tubers or rhizomes that will end up sprouting.

One of the most effective ways to prevent Nutsedge is to grow a thick and hardy lawn that will crowd out Nutsedge, and prevent this invasive grass-like weed from being able to properly root and grow those rhizomes and tubers that make it so invasive.

But if you have it, recommending that you hop in your time machine and take steps to prevent it doesn’t help you.

If you have Nutsedge in your lawn, there are specific herbicides that can be applied directly to the base of Nutsedge to kill the entire plant including the underground components, and while I always recommend an organic approach when I can, in this case this will be your best course of action.

Common couch

Another common weed that looks like grass is couch grass or common couch.

Sometimes referred to as quack grass, this is another invasive species that is hardy and can propagate quickly in your lawn via rhizomes as part of a complex and fibrous root system.

This makes it hard to pull in its entirety.

It also spreads via airborne seeds, thus being able to travel longer distances and quickly find a home in thin lawns.

Similar to many of the other grass-like weeds, prevention by crowding out seeds is the most effective way to prevent these species from invading, which is why proper and regular lawn maintenance and improvement are always my best defense against lawn weeds.

Green foxtail

This weed gets its name from the appearance of the mature heads that bloom on these grass-like stalks. The heads look like small fuzzy foxtails!

They can grow anywhere from 10cm to 100cm tall and are very common in prairies and meadows. Despite its cute name, it is an invasive species that can be quite problematic, especially for farmers, and a nuisance to lawn owners everywhere.

This hardy annual plant with hundreds of seeds per foxtail plume spreads easily, as these seeds can travel great distances with enough wind.

Despite how hardy these lawn weeds are once established, they are quite a picky species when it comes to germinating. They prefer moist soil and are easily crowded out by densely planted lawns or fields.

Green Foxtail also prefers warmer soil in the range of 15 to 35 degrees Celsius (59-95 degrees Fahrenheit), but this weed can germinate at any point in the season as long as conditions are favorable.

Like most lawn weeds, Green Foxtail can be controlled with some herbicidal solutions, but the best way to prevent this invasive species is by crowding it out with a thick, healthy lawn.

Smooth bromegrass

Another hardy perennial, Smooth Bromegrass, is highly adaptable and it is able to grow even in cold conditions and survive for quite a long time once established.

Like Nutsedge, Bromegrass can grow rhizomes underground through intricate root systems, which will help it to spread across your lawn quickly … especially if your lawn is thin.

These qualities make it an invasive species that can easily get out of control.

However, Bromegrass serves an important purposes as hay and grazing fields for livestock and it can also help to prevent soil erosion due to this strong root system.

Despite these qualities, most homeowners probably don’t want it in their lawn. To control and eliminate Smooth Bromegrass in your lawn, I recommend mowing it down low and attempting to crowd it out with a thick, healthy lawn canopy. In a worse-case scenario, you should opt for an application of herbicide designed to target this grass-like weed.

Slender rush

Also known as “poverty rush” or “path rush”, this grass-like perennial tends to grow in clumps, which is similar to crabgrass.

It is propagated by above-ground seeds as well as below-ground tubers that form with the help of the root system. The deeper root structure with rhizome propagation makes slender rush a particularly invasive species to get under control in lawns, because it can still be present even if you can’t necessarily see it yet.

Herbicides are not usually an effective way to control slender rush.

Manual weed management tends to be the most effective way of dealing with this invasive weed that looks like grass. This can involve pulling weeds by hand. Do so carefully, and be sure to get the root system as well.

The other options is a mowing routine that doesn’t allow for the plant to mature and spread seeds above ground.

Tall fescue

You’ve likely heard this species discussed in the context of a grass, however it is an invasive perennial that has characteristics of a weed, particularly if your lawn is primarily a different type of turfgrass.

Similar to some of the other species discussed above, tall fescue has the ability to propagate via rhizomes underneath the ground. It is highly drought resistant, and in areas where it has been planted it has often taken over, crowding out other species of grass.

If you wanted to get rid of tall fescue grass that has run wild in your yard, you’d probably have to solarize it. Solarizing involves covering up large areas of grass to deprive it of sunlight and also increase the heat underneath the tarp so that it kills everything underneath.

Herbicides could also be used, but it would take a large amount which could get costly and be harmful to the environment, so I recommend solarizing tall fescue.

Restoring Lawn and Order

It’s interesting to compare various grass-like weeds and perennials that are less desirable than the perfectly manicured lawn.

Eliminating Weeds That Look Like Grass

Careful selection of grass species is important in establishing a lawn.

It’s also possible to crowd out many of these invasive species by planting additional grass seed seasonally (overseeding) to create a thick and lush lawn.

Pre-emergent methods can also be an effective backup method of prevention, and using a pre-emergent every spring for several years as you overseed, fertilize, and use proper irrigation to improve your lawn can help to create that thick, dense lawn canopy that will prevent weeds from taking root in your grass.

Finally, spot treatment with the appropriate herbicide can nip any problematic weeds in the bud.

You May Also Enjoy:

by Sarah The Lawn Chick

I’ve learned to love caring for my lawn naturally and enjoying it daily. On this blog I’ll share some of my best tips and tutorials to help you make your lawn the best on the block!

16 thoughts on “ List of Common Weeds That Look Like Grass ”

Need help with naming an invasive looking weed that has leaves that look like a rocket, long thick body with small wings. It’s overtaking my raised beds. I have a photo.

I’ll see if I recognize it! Email me a photo (my first name @

Hello Sarah,
I have a few new spring weed grasses popping up that I didn’t see last year. Are you ok with sending the pics to your email for your opinion?

Thank you

Sure, Brian – I may not get back to you until this weekend but I’ll take a look as soon as I can!

Hi Sarah!
I just discovered your website/posts while researching ‘weeds that look like grass’. I breed, raise and train springers which are flushing dogs. Recently, I came back from an excursion and one of my springers got a ‘grass thorn’ stuck in her paw. I always check for these things but somehow I missed this one. Nasty little thing but it was removed and after treatment, my dog was right-as-rain!
I was researching lawns / grasses etc. as I’m planning to re-do my yard, making it more ‘dog friendly’. I was shocked to learn that Tall Fescue grass is considered an invasive weed on your website. This was the grass that was ‘highly recommended’ for those who have dogs. As I’m not keen on putting anything in that resembles bamboo in it’s underground system (I’ve had a 30 yr battle with this horrific stuff), can you suggest anything else? Any information you may provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the comment. Springers are great dogs!

There are a LOT of different types of fescue, and as with any grass … what some consider a weed, others consider the foundation of a beautiful lawn. If you like the characteristics of fescue, I’d recommend you consider Turf Type Tall Fescue. It’s an improved variety designed for lawns and something I think you’ll be really happy with if you’re determined to go with a single type of grass for your yard.

You can read more about all of your options for Fescue here, and I have a comparison of TTTF and Kentucky Bluegrass which you may find interesting here.

You also may be interested in my article about how to grow grass with dogs that love to destroy it, which has some good tips on maintaining your lawn with four-legged friends. You can check that one out here.

Finally, I’d suggest that it might be a good idea to get a blend of grass seed, with whatever you settle on as the primary seed. I’m in New England and my lawn is a mix of Perennial Ryegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass, and a few different fescues. Getting a seed blend that’s made for your area will give you good results, and provide good coverage in different areas of your lawn (full sun, part shade, shade, wet, dry, etc.). I think that’s easier to maintain than having to baby a single type of grass on parts of your property where growing conditions might not be ideal. With a blend of seed you allow different grasses to become dominant where the conditions are best suited for them, and your whole lawn looks and feels healthier.

Hope this helps – good luck!

Hi Sarah! Thank you so very much for all your help! This is the most information I have ever received! I love the idea of mixing grass seed … this could be a very good solution. My lawn is not very big … I have four ESS and of course they have worn paths to their various ‘barking stations’ ! The lawn is basically sunny and has thrived well. But, over time, some of the grass has worn despite my best efforts at ‘re-seeding’. I was relieved to learn that there are many types of Tall Fescue Grass. I would really like to see some great photos of lawns using this variety: google just doesn’t cut it!
Again, thanks so much Sarah. I live in BC., Canada so our climate is quite different from yours. Fortunately, living in the southern part (coast), we experience quite a mild climate, lots of rain in the winter with very little snow and our summer highs almost never reach higher than 34C. I will take all your suggestions under advisement and begin my research pronto!

You bet, Sharleen! Good luck and have fun with your project!

I have an area of lawn that has really compact soil, where a portion of the section gets scorching sun and the remainder is covered in shade. This year, I’ve tried growing Bermuda grass, but that is only taking somewhat in the sunny area. It has been so bad for so long that I’m now researching “weeds that look like lawns” that I can plant in this area and just be done with it! We are in central Virginia and have hot/humid summers and still some winter.

The transition zone can be tough for grass for some of the reasons you’ve outlined here. I’d try the Combat Extreme Transition Zone seed blend from Outside Pride. I’d plant it in September to give it the best chance of success so it can establish itself as things start to cool down in your area and it can build roots and come back strong and healthy for next season. The Outside Pride website has a calculator specific to this seed that will tell you exactly how much you’ll need to order and spread (I’d go a bit heavy, but that’s me). Here’s a link to an article with some resources to measure the lawn area you plan to re-seed so you’ll know exactly how much you need. I’d give this one (or one like it) a try before you throw in the towel. You need a good blend that can take sun and shade, and a fescue blend should be best for you as it’ll have the deep roots needed to withstand your summer heat.

Do you know what species prefer weeds to monocultures? All pollinators! Please consider why you feel you need a vast monoculture of grass in the first place.

Totally agree with you – I have huge perennial beds filled with native, pollinator-friendly plants that are in flower from spring through late fall for exactly this reason. I’m of the mindset that you can create a beautiful lawn for your family to enjoy while also supporting pollinators.

I have quite a few resources on this site that address this subject, as well. Here are a couple you may enjoy:

Thanks for your comment!

I just happened upon your website, Sarah. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with those of us who want weeds diminished in our lawns. Is there a specific herbicide that we should consider in dealing with nutsedge? Thanks for your attention to this matter. Frank

I’d try the Ortho Nutsedge product. It’s probably something that’s available locally, but you can also get it online (Amazon link). I like it because it comes ready-to-use in a hose-end sprayer. For those of us who don’t really like mixing herbicides, that’s a benefit.

As with any herbicide, I recommend testing it out in a small area before you spray it all over your lawn just to be sure it’s effective and that it isn’t going to kill your turfgrass in addition to the Nutsedge and cause a big headache for you.

We’re trying to identify a grass-like plant in our lawn (we’re in New Hampshire). I think it looks like a flat circle of knives. Pretty, but not the nice soft grass you’d want to walk through barefoot.

We have a picture that we can send.

I’ll see if I recognize it! Email me a photo (my first name @

Posted on

Plant seed after weed and feed

How Many Days Do You Have to Wait Before Seeding After Weed & Feed?

You want a beautiful lawn for your family to enjoy, but it’s no longer enough to just mow it. You have to fertilize, water, kill weeds and then reseed any bare spots. Using a weed and feed product saved you some time, so now you’re ready to plant some grass seed. You may have to wait a bit longer, though, depending on the type of weed and feed product you used.

Weed and Feed

Weed and feed products consist of fertilizers such as nitrogen or potassium, and a pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide. If the weed and feed is designed for spring application, it contains a pre-emergent. If it is designed for later in the growing season, it incorporates a post-emergent herbicide. Knowing which one you are using is important because the herbicides affect plants in significantly different ways.

  • You want a beautiful lawn for your family to enjoy, but it’s no longer enough to just mow it.
  • Using a weed and feed product saved you some time, so now you’re ready to plant some grass seed.

How They Work

Pre-emergent weed and feed is applied in early spring so the herbicide is in place before the undesirable weeds germinate. Pre-emergent herbicide works by inhibiting germination. It must be watered with at least one-half inch of water to move the chemical from the surface into the soil. Post-emergent herbicides, however, must be applied while the weeds are actively growing because for the chemical to work, the herbicide must be absorbed into the plant.

Why You Wait

Since weed and feed products are designed to prevent germination — or to eradicate a living plant — they can, for the most part, have a similar effect on young turf grass. The only exception is the pre-emergent herbicide siduron, which is actually used to assist in seed germination. When using a pre-emergent that does not contain siduron, wait a minimum of two months before seeding. If using a product designed for broadleaf weeds, read the label carefully, because the active ingredient in these post-emergent herbicides have a wider range for the waiting period. Grass can be planted in as little as one month after application for products using 2,4-D to as much as six months for atrazine-based products.

  • Pre-emergent weed and feed is applied in early spring so the herbicide is in place before the undesirable weeds germinate.
  • Post-emergent herbicides, however, must be applied while the weeds are actively growing because for the chemical to work, the herbicide must be absorbed into the plant.

Proper Seeding Methods

When you are ready to seed your lawn, use a garden rake to remove debris and to break up the surface to ensure the seed comes into contact with the soil. Broadcast the seeds in two directions to ensure complete coverage, and water the ground lightly and often for up to two weeks — keeping the soil moist. Once seedlings have established, gradually reduce the frequency of the watering, but lengthen the amount of time per watering. This will encourage a deep root system for your grass.

How Many Days Do You Have to Wait Before Seeding After Weed & Feed?

Weed and feed fertilizers are often used in combination with seeding. Weed and feed formulations consist of two components: a herbicide to kill weeds and a fertilizer to strengthen the turf. The herbicide will weaken the grass as well as the weeds and the fertilizer will strengthen the weeds as well as the grass. When applying seed over a weed and feed application, remember that some weed and feeds can prevent grass seeds from growing.

Types of Herbicide

It’s important to know a little about herbicides so you can make the best choice for when to apply seed in an area that has been treated for weeds. The most common types of herbicide in weed and feed products are selective and systemic. Selective herbicides target a species of plant to kill while systemic herbicides work by being absorbed though the roots and then transported throughout the plant, killing it from within. Read the bag label to see what kind of herbicide is used in the weed and feed you are considering using or have used. The bag label will tell you how many days you must wait before applying seed to a lawn that has been treated with that product.


Herbicides can target weeds before they germinate from seed – pre-emergent – or as developed plants – post-emergent. Before you seed, you can use a non-selective, post-emergent herbicide to control any weeds in the area to be seeded. Most of these can be applied up to two weeks before seeding to control any existing weeds. Herbicides should not be used after seeding until the new seedlings are established. Mowing and spot treatments can be used to control weeds until the seeded area is actively growing and requires only maintenance watering. Establishment times vary depending on the type of seed you use and your weather conditions.

Using Weed and Feed

Only use a weed and feed if the weed infestation is completely uniform over the entire lawn and all species of weeds targeted will be affected by the herbicide in the weed and feed. This scenario doesn’t occur often, so it is more likely the use of an herbicide and a fertilizer separately will be needed. If the weeds are uniformly spread over the area to be treated, match the appropriate weed and feed product to your grass, the seed you have recently applied or want to apply, and the time of year.

Know What You Grow

It is important to know what kind of grass you have growing or want to have growing. Certain chemicals act differently on different species of grass and weeds. For example, the common herbicide 2,4-D is toxic to some cultivars of St. Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum), which grows in the area roughly covered by U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Another common herbicide, atrazine, is potentially lethal to grass when applied in temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Use the instructions on the bag of each weed and feed product to determine how it will affect seeding.

  • University of Florida IFAS Extension: Weed Management in Home Lawns
  • Texas Agricultural Extension Service: Maintaining St. Augustinegrass Lawns

Sara DeBerry is a graduate of the University of Florida holding a masters degree in environmental horticulture and a minor in entomology and nematology. DeBerry has been writing for government agencies since 2004 and has published peer reviewed scientific articles during her studies at UF.

Posted on

Easy way to germinate weed seeds

How do I germinate marijuana seeds?

Cannabis germination is the process of getting your seeds to sprout, and you know sprouting has occurred when a little white tendril pops out of the seed.

The little white tendril that emerges from a cannabis seed during germination is your plant’s first root, known as a “taproot.” All other roots made by your cannabis plant in its lifetime will sprout from the taproot.

The taproot – and maybe a few tiny early offshoots of the taproot – will get longer and longer, pushing the seed up, and after the shell breaks through the surface of your growing medium, the first leaves (these first round leaves are known as “cotyledons”) will emerge from inside the cannabis seed.

The cotyledons were already created as part of the plant embryo in the seed itself, so the cannabis seedling doesn’t have to grow them. In fact, the emerging first leaves are what break apart the shell after it’s cracked open by the taproot, as pictured here.

The next set of leaves after the cotyledons are your plants first “true” leaves and will have jagged edges (serrations). At least, they are the first leaves that your seedling cannabis plant has grown all on its own, unlike the cotyledons which were already formed in the seed.

Cannabis seeds can be expensive, don’t waste your seeds with bad germination methods!
(Wait, where can I get cannabis seeds?)

What Do Marijuana Seeds Need to Germinate?

Marijuana seeds need the following to get the best germination rates:

  • Moisture – Keep things moist but not soaking (you can soak hard seeds for up to 24-32 hours, but do not leave seeds soaking in water for longer than that).
  • Peace – Seeds need to be left alone while you’re waiting for the taproot to show up.
  • Warmth – Keep things warm to get the best germination rates, but not too hot! Think springtime. Seeds can definitely germinate in cooler temps, but germination tends to take longer when it’s cool.
  • Gentle – Be careful when checking seeds, and treat them gently when you have to move them. Avoid touching their white root if possible; the taproot is very fragile and easily snaps off!
  • Plant Root Down – When planting germinated seeds, point the white root downwards into the growing medium to prevent the seedling from having to reorient itself.
  • Plant Knuckle Deep – When planting germinated seeds, they don’t have to be placed too far under in the growing medium, about a half inch to an inch (1.3 cm – 2.5 cm) down from the surface of the medium should be enough.

When germinating cannabis seeds, think springtime conditions. In the wild, your cannabis seeds would germinate in the spring so they can be ready to take full advantage of long summer days!

Never let your young sprouted seeds dry up!

The main signal that tells a marijuana seed to start sprouting is the presence of moisture and heat. The combination of warm and wet (aka spring conditions) “tells” the seed to start burrowing their main root (called a taproot) through their shell.

If a seed’s root breaks through the shell and the water around has dried up, your seedling will die. Plain and simple.

Seedlings are fragile at first. Once sprouted, the roots need to stay constantly moist to stay happy and healthy. It’s important to make sure the seeds have access to water the entire time during germination, no matter which cannabis germination method you end up using.

Keep things warm!

Seeds germinate best in warmer temperatures and young marijuana seedlings do better with higher relative humidity in the air. When seedlings are young, they grow faster and healthier when they can absorb moisture from the air through their leaves while their roots are still developing. Dry air won’t kill your seedlings, but it doesn’t make things better. Again, think springtime conditions!

You can use an incandescent bulb (or two) placed over the marijuana seed germination area to help keep things warm. Incandescent bulbs are the opposite of what a grower typically wants: they can’t be used as grow lights, but they’re great at generating heat. Some people will also place a heating pad (the kind you get from a garden store for seedlings) underneath seeds to help aid germination.

Basically, you want to make sure any seeds or sprouts are kept warm and moist at all times, that their roots are unexposed to light, and that they get planted right away.

There are several different methods to germinate your cannabis seeds, and in this article we’ll go through some easy techniques that have proven to be effective.

How do I know if my seeds are good?

Assume all dark seeds are viable, even if seeds can be crushed

Generally, pale-green or white seeds will not germinate, but most dark seeds will germinate when given good conditions.

I used to believe that marijuana seeds were only “good” if they were extremely hard and very dark. One of the first tests I heard to check new cannabis seeds for viability was to try to crush them between my fingers. If the seeds could be crushed, they weren’t good, or so I was told. This has proven to be absolutely terrible advice!

Some of the best plants I have ever grown have emerged from seeds which were flimsy and could be crushed between my fingers. As long as you provide great marijuana germination conditions (as explained above), I’ve found that a lot of seemingly “weak” seeds germinate and produce amazingly hardy plants and great buds.

I do not believe the health of the plant is directly tied to the apparent “health” of the seed. If the seed germinates, it’s a good seed!

Here’s a picture showing several healthy and viable cannabis seeds

Remember! Most of the medical strains of marijuana we grow today (learn how to get seeds) have been bred over many years to produce plants that are easy to grow and which produce potent, medicinal buds. However, these strains have not been selected for the toughness of the seeds they produce since that isn’t important to us as growers. Just remember…

As long as a seed germinates, it’s a good seed!

Germination Method 1: Starter Cubes & Seedling Plugs (Recommended)

One of the best cannabis germination methods is to use specifically-made starter cubes and seedling plugs. These plugs make cannabis germination easy. You simply place the seed in the cube or plug, add water as directed, and seedlings automatically get the perfect conditions for germination.

Each cube or plug already has a hole specifically for you to place your seed. Just stick your seed into the precut hole and pinch the top closed a bit with your fingers. Don’t worry, you can’t mess this part up As long as the seed makes it in there, you should be good.

This is one of the easiest germination methods and doesn’t leave a lot of room for error. Cannabis seeds and clones can be expensive, and sometimes we have genetics we just can’t afford to lose. When that’s the case, germinate your cannabis with one of the following recommended options to ensure as close to 100% germination rate as possible.

Which Starter Cubes Work Best for Germinating Cannabis?

Rapid Rooters (Highly Recommended For All Setups)

Rapid Rooters are easy to work with – you just stick your cannabis seed in the Rapid Rooter (pointy side down), keep your seed warm and slightly moist, and let the Rapid Rooter do its magic.

Sprouts emerge and roots appear in just a few days.

Rapid Rooter starter cubes are suitable for all growing methods, including hydroponics, coco coir and soil. They work for every setup and come from General Hydroponics, a trusted company (the same one used by NASA) which is known for the quality and consistency of its products.

I highly recommend using Rapid Rooters over any other starter plugs. They are less prone to problems and work great with any growing medium (including hydroponic systems).

Pros of Rapid Rooters

  • Easy to Use – You Can’t Really Mess Up
  • No Prep or Setup – Open the Package and Go
  • Some of the Best Germination Rates of Any Method

Cons of Rapid Rooters

  • Can only get 50+ at a time (General Hydroponics currently does not offer fewer plugs per package)
  • After opening the package, you only have a week or two before they dry out, so if you’re only germinating one or two seeds, you’ll end up having to throw many of the Rapid Rooters away.

There are a few different options for Rapid Rooters, which can be confusing if you’re not sure what you want. The 3 different options for Rapid Rooters are listed here…

Bag of Rapid Rooters

These are round on bottom instead of being a cube, which means they cannot stand up on their own. These are best suited to a hydroponic setup where the Rapid Rooter will be placed directly in the final destination. In our hydroponic setups, we’ve had near 100% germination rates with Rapid Rooters, better than any other seedling cube we’ve tried.

  • Round on bottom (won’t stand up by themselves without support) unless you squish the bottom so it’s flat like this grower did (pic)
  • Great for starting with Rapid Rooter directly in final destination (hydro, soil, coco coir, etc)
  • Get 50 Rapid Rooters at a time

Rapid Rooters Mat

This type of Rapid Rooters comes in a mat of (usually 98) Rapid Rooters. All the individual Rapid Rooters are sectioned off and have a hole for the seed, but they must be cut or pulled away from the complete mat. Unlike the type of Rapid Rooters that comes in a bag, these ones are made into cubes and are flat on the bottom so they can stand alone. This makes them good for germinating in a shallow pool of water where the cubes need to be able to stand up on their own.

  • Easily break cubes off the mat (already sectioned off with pre-cut holes)
  • Already shaped like cubes with flat bottoms, so they easily stand up by themselves
  • Good for seamlessly transplanting your seedlings somewhere else
  • Get 98 Rapid Rooters at a time

Rapid Rooters Tray

The Rapid Rooters tray is perfect for seeds or clones. Allow your young plants to sit in the tray with water until their roots are well formed and ready to be transplanted to your final destination. The standard size tray fits most humidity domes. You can refill the tray with Rapid Rooters from the bag or mat.

As you can see in the pictures below, the Rapid Rooter Tray comes packaged up. Once you open the package, you will see 50 Rapid Rooters already set in the tray. The resting place for each Rapid Rooter has a hole on the bottom so water within the tray is wicked up. The top part comes apart from the bottom.

Just add you seeds and pour some water into the tray – the Rapid Rooters will do everything else for you.

  • Perfect for cloning or starting seeds with a humidity dome (standard 10-inch by 20-inch dome like this one – 7-inch height recommended for cannabis seeds or clones)
  • Easy to transplant to new destination
  • Just add water and seeds, that’s it!
  • Whole tray can be refilled with any type of Rapid Rooters (from bag or mat)
  • Comes with 50 Rapid Rooters, ready to go

Rockwool Cubes (Not Recommended)

It’s often hydroponic cannabis growers who use Rockwool cubes since these can be safely placed in hydroponic setups, hold a lot of moisture, and are resistant to mold. Rockwool is cheap and easy to find. It comes in convenient cubes. But it does have some major drawbacks…

Pros of Rockwool

  • Cheap & Easy to Find
  • Inert Medium (useful for hydroponic growers)

Cons of Rockwool

  • Bad for the environment (unnatural material that does not break down)
  • Bad for your health (especially your lungs) – wear gloves and cover your mouth/eyes when handling Rockwool
  • Has a pH that is too high for cannabis, so it must be thoroughly rinsed and treated
  • Poor cloning and germination rates
  • Difficult for new growers

Rockwool cubes are bad for the environment

Rockwool is not a natural material – it’s made by heating rock and chalk to 3,000°F and air is blown through the mixture to create thin fibers of rocky material

It does not break down naturally and therefore after Rockwool is created, it will remain in that form basically forever, filling up landfills without breaking down for thousands of years.

Rockwool cubes can be bad for your health

Rockwool is dusty and needs to be rinsed thoroughly before use. Little pieces of Rockwool and dust can easily get in your eyes, skin and mouth. Small strands or fibers can get lodged in your lungs if you breathe in Rockwool dust, and it’s unknown if these fibers can ever get out again.

Protect yourself! Always use a mask, goggles and gloves when working with Rockwool.

Rockwool cubes have a high pH until they’re treated

New Rockwool cubes have a high pH – too high for healthy cannabis seed germination. Therefore it’s important to thoroughly rinse Rockwool cubes in pHed water, then let them soak in pHed water overnight before use. Since Rockwool holds onto a lot of water, after soaking they should be given a few days to dry out before planting seeds or making clones.

Rockwool cubes do not get great germination rates

Rockwool can be difficult to germinate marijuana seeds in, so I recommend most beginner growers sprout their seeds using another method like Rapid Rooters (mentioned above) which can also be used in hydroponic applications but are less prone to germination problems.

Many growers have placed seeds in Rockwool cubes, only to wait for weeks and never see seedlings appear.

Some growers seem to have no problems, yet many other growers suffer through very poor germination rates. Some seed companies will not honor seed germination guarantees if the grower uses Rockwool because it is notoriously bad for germination.

If you do use Rockwool, it’s recommended you germinate your seeds using another method like the paper towel method, then transplant your seeds to the Rockwool cubes after roots have already appeared.

Even when following all the best practices, we just have not gotten great germination rates with Rockwool cubes, and it’s common for new seedlings not to make it. When we were using Rockwool (before we switched to Rapid Rooters), we usually lost at least 1 seed out of a batch of 6 or 8.

We also had trouble rooting clones in Rockwool. Rockwool cubes just don’t hold enough air to get plenty of oxygen to the roots, and they tend to hold onto a lot of water and get waterlogged easily. Since Rockwool can hold a lot of water, it’s prone to “drowning” seeds

I highly recommend using Rapid Rooters instead for your hydroponic application (or any grow setup), as they are much more user-friendly and tend to get far better germination rates.

Jiffy Pellets (Recommended for Soil or Coco Coir)

Jiffy Pellets are used in a similar way to Rockwool cubes, though these tend to get much better germination results. Jiffy pellets are not suitable for most hydroponic setups where the roots are grown directly in water, but Jiffy Pellets can be directly transferred into soil or coco coir.

Pros of Jiffy Pellets

  • Good Germination Rates for Soil and Coco Coir
  • Good for Cloning – read a cannabis cloning tutorial using Jiffy pellets
  • Come in dried pellets, so they can be kept for a long time

Cons of Jiffy Pellets

  • Not suitable for hydroponic setups
  • Must be soaked to expand each pellet before use

How to Use: Soak Jiffy pellets in warm water, which makes the pellets expand in size, as pictured below.

Once the compressed Jiffy pellets have expanded in warm water, gently squeeze excess water from each pellet and you’re ready to go. Treat them the same as Rapid Rooters.

Germination Method 2: Plant marijuana seeds directly in growing medium

Sometimes nature’s way is the easiest way. In nature, marijuana seedlings would sprout in soil, and they would emerge as their taproots start growing down.

As a grower, you can also plant your seeds directly in your final growing medium. This works in all growing mediums, though some can be tougher than others.

One of the biggest benefits of planting your seed directly in the growing medium is you don’t have to worry about shocking your young seedling during transplant. Because your seed is already in its final resting place, your new seedling will immediately start adjusting to the environment. Every time you transplant a sprouted seed, it can cause stress as the young plant needs to readjust its new surroundings.

  • Soil – Plant seeds a knuckle deep (0.5-1 inch OR 1.3 cm – 2.5 cm) in moist yet not soaking soil. Use a light or a heating pad to keep things warm. This is one of the easiest marijuana germination methods for beginners.
  • Coco Coir or other soilless growing mediums – Plant in a similar way to soil

Germination Method 3: Germination Station

One option for growers is to use a tool which has been specifically designed to provide optimal germination conditions like this germination station with heat mat.

You can make a DIY germination station at home by putting a plastic dome over a plate on a heating pad.

There are benefits to the professionally made germination stations as they work very well and are pretty cheap to buy.

When growers start their cannabis seedlings in a germination station, the seeds are usually germinated in a starter seedling cube.

One of the advantages of starting seeds in starter cubes is your sprouted seeds can easily be transferred right to their next growing medium or container.

I recommend Rapid Rooters as these starter cubes work great for cannabis seeds and can be used in any growing medium including hydroponics, soil, or coco coir. Other starter cubes include Jiffy Peat Pellets, and Rockwool cubes.

Once your seed has sprouted, just make a little hole in your growing medium, and place the entire pellet inside. Make sure growing medium is also moist yet not soaking, like your pellet or cube. The roots will emerge from the bottom of the cube and burrow directly into your growing medium.

Germination Method 4: Soak Marijuana Seeds in Water Overnight

Another method to germinate marijuana seeds is to soak them overnight in slightly warm water, usually done in a glass drinking cup.

This method is especially effective for seeds which have extra hard shells, or seeds which are older (more than a few years old).

The warm overnight soaking can help “wake up” older seeds.

Most viable seeds will start out floating, and then eventually sink to the bottom of your glass after a few hours of soaking.

If soaked in a clear drinking glass, you will see when the little white tap root first breaks through the shell.

Some seeds take longer than others to sprout. Especially older seeds tend to need longer to pierce through their shell. However, if seeds are left soaking too long, and haven’t yet sprouted, they can drown.

Therefore, do not leave seeds soaking in water for more than 24-32 hours.

After 24 hours, I recommend putting any still-ungerminated seeds in a warm, moist place to finish germinating.

Germination Method 5: Paper Towel Method

One way to germinate seeds is to wet a paper towel and then fold your seeds in it, then leave the paper towel in a warm place.

Use cheap paper towels! For some reason, the really cheap paper towels work best because they’re so non-porous. Seeds and their roots lay on top without getting stuck to anything. This is important! The more expensive “cloth-like” paper towels (like Viva brand) aren’t good for germination because the roots actually grow into them instead of laying on top.

If you germinate your seeds in a paper towel, there is the risk of hurting the tap root (the little white root that grows out of your seeds) when moving the sprouted seeds so make sure you are careful when you’re checking to see if the seeds sprouted.

There is also the possibility of having the towel dry out which will kill your new seeds so I recommend putting your paper towel under an upside down bowl or between two paper (or regular) plates.

Check on germinating seeds once every 12 hours or so (don’t disturb them or their roots). You can plant any seeds which have sprouted right away, or leave them for another day or two, to let the others keep up.

How to Plant Your Germinated Cannabis Seeds

After you see that your cannabis seeds have sprouted, you should plant them right away.

You don’t want to touch the little white taproot with your fingers, so either carefully move the seeds, or use tweezers. If you do touch or break the root, the seedling may still survive, but any damage to the root will definitely stunt and slow down growth right in the beginning.

Root down!

Plant seeds so that the white root faces downward, about a knuckle deep into your growing medium. The top of the seed should be just below the surface of your growing medium.

It can take anywhere from a couple of hours to a couple of days before you see the young seedling emerge from the soil or growing medium. If your marijuana seedling hasn’t sprouted from the soil within 10 days after being placed root-down, it probably isn’t going to make it Even with the best practices and the best seeds, you will occasionally lose a seed. Many times it has nothing to do with you!

First sign of taproots. These are ready to be planted!

Rapid Rooters are nice, but not necessary. You can use them before you transfer your seedlings to their final container. The Rapid Rooter should be cut open lengthwise if you plan on using them for germinated seeds. I use big scissors.

Gently place the germinated seed inside, root down. Place the seed close to the surface so it doesn’t have far to go.

Sometimes you’ll have a taproot that is curved or bent. You don’t want to try to straighten it out! Open the Rapid Rooter you split, and lay the germinated seed down gently. The seed and root will naturally lay on the flattest side. Slowly close the Rapid Rooter, and you’ll see that the bent parts of the root will end up in the “crack” of the Rapid Rooter from where you cut to split it open from the side.

After closing a Rapid Rooter, it’s hard to tell it’s been opened. The texture of Rapid Rooters causes the seeds to stay in place and not “fall down” further into the hole once you’ve got it closed.

Sometimes the shell can get stuck on the seedling, but it will often fall off on its own. If it seems really stuck, you can help the seedling by gently removing it.

Within the first week of germinating seeds, you will notice that some seeds germinate right away and others take a little bit longer. This can be caused by a lot of things, from the age of the seed (old seeds have worse germination rates and tend to take longer) to simple chance. The amount of time does not necessarily have anything to do with how healthy your plant will be in the long run.

Once your seeds are safely planted, you can turn on your grow light. The heat from the lamp improves germination rates, and the light can help your new cannabis seedlings open their first set of leaves. In fact, the first set of leaves will often stay yellow until they get light.

If you will be transplanting your seedlings again, avoid transplanting until they are well established and have a couple of sets of leaves (nodes). Some growers will plant seedlings in a growing medium in a solo cup or peat pot, so they can just cut away the cup for easy transplanting.

When you move seedlings around a lot, it stresses them out and potentially stunts their growth. Too much stress can even kill them. So try to plan from the beginning so that you move your seedlings around as little as possible. once they get bigger, they are a lot more hardy and can stand a lot more stress and movement.

Here are some pictures to give you an idea of the timeline to expect

Sprouted seeds planted in Hydrofarm pellets and placed on soil

If you want, you can put bottles on top to help retain extra humidity (like a cheap humidity dome).

It’s a steady 85 degrees F in there, no idea about the humidity in the bottles.

Marijuana seedlings under T5 Grow Light

Day 7 from seed

Your Cannabis Seedling’s First Few Weeks

During the first few weeks of a young marijuana plant’s life, you have to be careful.

Marijuana seedlings, especially seeds from some of the most potent strains, tend to be a bit delicate.

Seedlings definitely won’t be able to withstand full-strength grow lights or nutrients. They need to have a moist environment, but also can easily be drowned or overwatered.

If you’re planting in soil, start with a balanced potting soil that doesn’t contain extra nutrients. I recommend Happy Frog potting soil mix for young cannabis seedlings, but any plain potting mix from your local garden store will do. Never use Miracle-Gro soil or any soil that has “time-released” nutrients already mixed in. After your plants have grown a few sets of leaves, you can transfer them to a stronger potting mix that contains higher levels of nutrients like Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil, or you can start supplementing with cannabis soil nutrients. Don’t want to use nutrients? Learn how to mix up your own super soil so it has all the nutrients your cannabis plants will need!

If you’re planting in coco coir, a soilless medium, or hydroponics, only add cannabis nutrients at seedling strength, or 1/4 the regular strength, until your plants have grown a few sets of leaves. Then you can slowly start working your way up to full strength nutrient levels.

With young marijuana seedlings, less is more.

You’re trying to give young plants a very small dose of nutrients at first. However, even with young marijuana seedlings, the pH of your water and growing medium is important. Some growers get lucky and happen to have water with the right pH, but if you’re noticing deficiencies and problems with your seedlings, definitely take the time to understand about marijuana root pH and how it affects the plant’s overall health.

If you plan on eventually putting your marijuana seedlings under high intensity grow lights (such as HPS or MH grow lights), you may want to start them out with less intense fluorescent grow lights or compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs). Or just keep your high intensity grow lights several feet away at first, and slowly move lights closer as your seedlings gets older

CFL bulbs (twisty/spiral bulbs as pictured to the right) are a great source of light for young marijuana seedlings

  • CFLs provide the right types of light for seedlings
  • CFLs are extremely cheap to buy
  • CFLs are easy on your electric bill
  • CFLs can be found almost anywhere, at your local hardware store, supermart, grocery store, or online

Keep CFLs or fluorescent lights about 6 inches away from your seedlings. Place your hand where the leaves are to make sure it doesn’t feel too hot. If it’s hot for your after 10 seconds, it’s too hot for your plants.

Once your seedlings have developed their first two sets of leaves, then you can move these lights as close as 2 inches away as long as the lights aren’t too hot.

Remember: If grow lights feels too hot to your hand after 10 seconds, they’re too hot for your marijuana seedlings

Make sure to keep a close eye on your seedlings to ensure they don’t grow too close to the grow lights and burn themselves. Seedlings can grow fast, and many growers have been surprised to find plants have actually grown into the light overnight.

If new seedlings are showing signs of stress, try moving the lights further away and see if that helps.

Once marijuana seedlings are about fourteen days old, they’re ready to start being treated as if they’re in the vegetative stage.

This Timeline Will Help Show You What to Expect

Two round cotyledon leaves, then two “real” (serrated) single-finger cannabis leaves

Next, the single-finger leaves expand, and the next set is usually 3-finger leaves

Next, the cannabis plant will start making 5-finger leaves

Finally, most cannabis plants stop at 7-finger leaves

If you look closely at the above plant, you can see that some of the newer leaves on this plant actually have 9 fingers. It is normal for there to be some variation between leaves – some plants will grow leaves with 11 or even 13 fingers. But the above guide will give you a general idea of what to expect.

Once your cannabis seedling is about fourteen days old, it’s ready to start being treated as if in the vegetative stage.

Make sure you learn about plant training techniques to make the most of your time in the vegetative stage!

Wait! My seed is growing upside down with the roots up; what do I do?

As long as the roots of a cannabis seedling are able to grow down, they will. Roots never grow upward on their own. Seedlings can sense the difference between up and down. Roots always try to grow down. Roots never grow upwards.

So how come sometimes it looks like a cannabis plant is growing with its roots pointing up?

When the seed end is still bent down, all you see is a U-shaped stem/root

Cannabis seeds can look a bit different when germinating. When in doubt, always wait a few days to see if leaves appear before you try to interfere.

Sometimes the stem of a brand new cannabis seedling can look like the roots growing out the top. But if you wait and watch, you’ll see that it’s all part of the plan. Hope these pics help someone!

Sometimes you’ll see what appears to be roots emerging from your cannabis seed, but this is actually the stem. The stem pushes the seed and leaves up, and the main taproot is currently burrowing down to support the seedling

As the seedling emerges you’ll be able to see the leaves (sometimes it will still have the seed stuck on the first leaves, like in the picture above).

The cotyledons (first, round leaves) unfurl, and then the regular cannabis leaves between to grow. Here’s another view of that same seedling from above. Even though it may have looked a bit weird at first, this seedling is completely normal and will grow just fine from now on.

What Size Pot Should I Use?

When growing cannabis plants in a container, you have to choose the size of your pot.

A general guide is to have about 2 gallons per 12″ of height. This isn’t perfect since plants often grow differently, but this is a good rule of thumb.

When in doubt, get a bigger final container size as opposed to a smaller one. Plants that get rootbound from being in a too-small container will grow more slowly and be prone to problems. It’s not good to transfer plants during the flowering/budding stage, so you want to have your cannabis plants in their final container at least 2 weeks before the beginning of flowering/budding. How do I get my cannabis plants to start flowering?

Final Container for Desired Plant Size – General guide

12″ ~ 2-3 gallon container

24″ ~ 3-5 gallon container

36″ ~ 5-7 gallon container

48″ ~ 6-10 gallon container

60″ ~ 8-10+ gallon container

But what size pot should you use for your seedlings?

For fastest growth rates, it’s better to plant young seedlings or clones in a very small container, like a disposable plastic solo cup.

For new seedlings and clones, use a small container if possible

The reason you want to start with a small container is that your plant’s young roots thrive on oxygen. Cannabis plant roots “breathe” oxygen, just like we breathe air, and it’s important that young cannabis roots get plenty of oxygen so the plant can grow as fast as possible.

However, young plant roots do not drink much water yet. When you water seedlings or clones in a very big container, they will use up all the oxygen quickly, and the large size of the container will prevent the growing medium from drying out.

A big plant will drink up all the water quickly, but with seedlings, you’re basically waiting for the growing medium to dry out by itself. While you’re waiting for the container to dry out, your cannabis roots are sitting in a wet environment and not getting much oxygen, slowing down their growth rates.

Poke holes in the bottom of your cup so water can drain out easily!

By planting young seeds in a small container with holes in the bottom, the growing medium will dry out much more quickly, allowing you to water more often. The young cannabis will get plenty of oxygen and water.

Alternative to Solo Cup: Start plants in seedling cube

If you don’t want to have to transplant your young plants, you can start them in a seedling plug or cube and wait until you start seeing roots come out the bottom. At that point, they will be ready to be transferred to a larger container.

What happens if I plant seeds or clones in a big container?

Your cannabis seedlings and clones will definitely survive in a bigger container; they just won’t grow as fast for the first few days or weeks because they aren’t getting as much oxygen.

With a bigger container, you will need to wait longer between waterings, and during that time your plant roots will be getting reduced oxygen.

If you’ve planted your young plant in a large container, try to give only a little bit of water at a time (enough to wet the area around the seedling roots) until the plant is growing vigorously. Once the plant has grown a few sets of leaves, you should start watering cannabis normally so that water drains out the bottom.

One of the advantages of starting young plants in a big container is you won’t have to transfer them to bigger containers as they get older.

If you would like to take advantage of faster vegetative growth from transplanting, view the Complete Cannabis Transplant Guide (with pics!)

Spotlight: The 3 Best Ways to Germinate Cannabis Seeds

Does cultivating cannabis seeds interest you? Do you want help with it? This piece will discuss the best ways you can opt for when germinating your cannabis seeds.

Courtesy Photo / Samuel Mind

Have you recently decided to germinate your own cannabis seeds? It is a very exciting and rewarding process, only if you know the right way to do it. For that, we have come with a complete guide that will help you germinate cannabis seeds in the best way possible.

What exactly is Germination?

Germination is the very first stage of any plant growth. It is when the seed “realizes” that it is in a fertile environment and can start breaking out of its shell. A seedling will break through the shell, resulting in the growth of roots. The fertile environment helps the plant grow and feed off the light, water and nutrients in the environment. In the cannabis world, germination is a very important process. It is very important for the seed to pop out properly. There are different things that cultivators do to ensure that the seed germinates successfully.

How to Germinate Cannabis Seeds

There are different methods that cultivators use to germinate their cannabis seeds. Some use the old school method and germinate their seeds in the soil, while there are some people who germinate them in water. Lastly, you can also find people who germinate their seeds in paper towels. The way of cultivation depends on the cultivator. Let us take a closer look at each of these methods.

Germination of Cannabis Seeds in Soil

Soil is the most natural method to germinate your cannabis seeds. The soil is the perfect environment for the germination of cannabis seeds as the soils protects the weak roots from being damaged. However, there are things that you must take care of. For instance, it is very important to use the right type of soil.

The 15 Best Organic House Tracks Of May 2022

Lights Out Premiere: Sigvard – Reasons Beyond The Atmosphere [Materia]

WaTa Shares ‘On My Way’ EP

You can go for potting soil that is only lightly fertilized or you can also go for a seed starter that has a pH level 6 or slightly more acidic. The acidity in the soil is the optimal environment for the growth of the seed. Be careful, excess of everything is bad, and “hot soils” that are very rich in nutrients aren’t suitable for germination and seedlings – leave this type of medium for mature plants.

Germination of Cannabis Seeds in Water

If you want your plant to grow faster, germinating your seeds in water will probably be the best way forward. However, even though it is faster, there are things that you need to be careful with. You will have to make sure that the environment is of the optimal condition. Usually, to germinate, cannabis seeds need only a total of 24 to 48 hours. However, cultivators can keep their seeds soaked for a week. This method is faster than the soil method as it provides more moisture. Moisture is a key component in growing the seeds. The hard shell cannot withstand the moisture and it will become easier for the root to break through.

Germination of Cannabis Seeds in Paper Towels

Paper towels are a fairly new way for cultivators to germinate their seeds. Cultivators use damp paper towels or cotton pads to give the seed the moisture it needs. The seeds are placed in between two dampened paper towels and then enclosed between two plates. This helps keep the moisture in seeds need to be stored inside, under room temperature.

The germination process in this method takes up to 5 days to happen. The seeds will start sprouting in the paper towels and once the roots grow up to 5 millimeters in length, you can plant them. However, you must be very careful when planting them. They can easily break, as the roots are very fragile. It is possible for the roots to be tangled in the paper towels and break off. This is why it is best if you are extra gentle when handling them – the best way is to use a pair of sterile tweezers.

Final Thoughts

These are three ways you can germinate your cannabis seeds. The question remains as to which of these ways is the best. That depends solely on the cultivator. They need to decide what method works best for them and is the easiest to carry out. As our experience shows, more and more growers tend to use paper towel method, as it is simple, keeps the seed away from light, and usually results in quick germination. Also remember, that it is best to germinate the seeds and keep the young seedlings indoors as you can control the environment.

If you want to buy the highest quality of seeds, you can always do it at Herbies Seeds. They have some of the best seeds across the world with the guarantee of germination. The seeds they offer are authentic and high quality. If you want to give cannabis cultivation a go, it is best to get the seeds from a reputable place.